TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Hand brake cable

2010-06-10T15:59:45Z

AL...Ease:

S1 hand brake cable replacement:

Removal:
* Jack up one side of the car and remove the centre section of undertray
* Chock the front wheels and put an axle stand under [[jacking_points|jacking point]] C
* Do the same for the other side of the car
* Undo the two 17mm adjustment nuts that are half-way along each side of the old cable.
* You should now have enough slack to remove the pin that attaches the rear section of cable to the cable that goes into the cabin (it's got one of those gay little safety clips on it that you have to take off with a screwdriver)
* Wiggle the ends of the cable that are attached to the brake calipers and undo the hose clips that hold the cable to the wishbones (10mm nut)
* The old cable should now no longer be attached to your car, unless there are some tie-wraps on it, so cut them off and chuck the old cable out

Replacement:
* Take the new cable and lay it roughly where the old one was, making sure that it goes in between the gear-selection cable/throttle cable and the floor of the car
* Pull back the rubber bit near the 17mm adjustment nuts and loosely refit them
* Put the hose clips back on and loosely reattach them to the wishbones
* Thread the cable ends back into the calipers
* Realign the big metal crescent with the hole on the section of cable that enters the cabin and refit the pin and clip
* Now it's time to adjust the cable, you'll need to use a pair of spanners, or a spanner and some mole-grips to tighten the nuts
**You should adjust the cable so that it's tight when the hand brake lever is on the floor
**When you've adjusted it correctly you shouldn't be able to lift the lever more than 6 clicks without feeling like you're going to break something
**I think you can make it tighter than that without causing the brakes to bind, but I don't really know what I'm on about so played it safe
* Make sure that the cables are touching the wishbones and not flapping about near the wheels (use tie-wraps if necessary to hold them in place)
* When you've tightened everything up drop the car off the stands, put the undertray back on and get yoursen to MacDonald's car park!

Alarm

2010-04-11T17:12:18Z

AL...Ease:

#REDIRECT [[Vehicle security system]]

Alarm

2010-04-11T17:11:08Z

AL...Ease:

#REDIRECT [[Vehicle Security System]]

Alternator

2009-08-27T11:59:57Z

AL...Ease: /* Alternator belt */

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

[[Image:alternator.jpg|thumb|left|Rover K Series Alternator]]
{{clr}}

==Alternator==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator Wikipedia on Alternator]

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator Problem Diagnosis==

Common failures:

Regulator & Rectifier failure:

Battery lights flash on dash, headlights flash on when trying to start. When checking the voltage across the battery terminals readings are usually less then 12v, or can be open circuit and go high voltage 18v. This can have a detrimental affect on the battery - boils the acid/fluid if too high. Easiest solution - Remove the alternator and get checked by auto electrican.

The battery warning light on dash and flashing headlights can also be caused by a flat battery. There is a clicking as the solenoid etc click over but the engine will not start.

Bearing Failure for S2 111s and other model with 4-2-1 exhaust:

Due to the additional width of the 4-2-1 pipes, failure of the rear bearing is not uncommon.
The heat from the pipes cooks the grease until the bearing runs dry and very loud.
Noise produced sounds like metal grinding against metal.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator belt==

You can change the alternator belt by taking off the rear drivers side wheel and plastic inner arch mud guard. Removing the undertray will give no advantage. You will just need a good socket set, though you can get to A and B easily enough with a 15mm spanner.

Loosen 'A' pivot bolt and 'B' tensioner bolt, to allow the alternator to 'swing'.

'C' on the diagram is the tensioner of the belt, loosen this to remove the belt. The tensioner bolt is the 8mm bolt on the end of the arm. It slots into the end of the arm and allows the adjustment. Difficult to see when peering in, but easy enough to locate.

The MG Rover part number for a belt for the S1 is PQS100840 and costs about £10.50 including VAT. - This part number may be correct if you're going to a Rover dealer, but UniPart gave me a different belt when I asked for that number, the correct belt was UniPart number GMV50738 - AL...Ease 27/08/09

'''Tension belt''' to the following on S2:
For heater cars - one way deflection of 6-8mm under moderate finger pressure
For AC cars - as previous but 9-10mm

[[Image:alternator1.jpg|thumb|left|Alternator as shown on elise S2]]
{{clr}}[[Image:servicealternator.jpg]]
{{clr}}

'''Removal of Alternator'''
This is same as above but in addition you need to remove the 2No. cables; one is bolted on to the rear of the alternator using a 13mm nut, the other is a clip-on connector. Before removing the nut and cables, disconnect the battery.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator Heat Protection==

Heat-shield fabrics claim to reflect up to 90% of the heat radiated by the exhaust and can function at temperatures unto 2000 degrees Fahrenheit.

The potential downside is that the critical components are also thermally insulated from the inside and could therefore suffer from internally generated heat, ie too much protection could make matter worse.

http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=289

http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=80

Material can be bought here :-

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=heat

There are option to improve the standard of the existing manifold sheilding or to wrap the exhaust. Both of which [[may]] just push the heat elsewhere and cause problems further down the line.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Sourcing Replacement==

It is not recommended to purchase Chinese manufactured pattern replacement alternators for the Elise, such as those commonly advertised on ebay. They are not built to withstand sustained high revs and are guaranteed to fail prematurely. These include:

*Unipoint (ALT-4212)

Known good models include:

*Magneti Marelli (63321239)
*Bosch - OE part
*02 111s BOSCH 0124225011

== Alternator Re-build ==

Should your alternator bearing pack up and you don't want to buy a new one (£165) or exchange (£120-140) or repair (£40), then you can always fix it yourself.

Doing this may stop you from being able to exchange an alternator at a later date, if you have any worries stop now.

1. Remove the alternator from the car as described above, access can only be achieved through the wheel arch, with the drivers rear wheel removed. Good luck getting it out between the engine mount and the fuel filler pipes, stick with it!

2. Once you've got the alternator on the bench remove the 2 nuts and the 1 screw holding the plastic cover on and remove, then undo the 2 screws (a&b) holding the electrical parts on - remove sideway and slide out with the commutators attached.

[[Image:alternator1a.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

3. Undo the 4 long bolts, I used a screw driver with a hex shaft and drove it round with a spanner.

4. Using a sturdy flat blade screw drive prise the 2 halves of the body apart. This takes time and you have to work methodically work round from one side to another.

[[Image:alternator2.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

5. Using a 2 or 3 leg puller pull the bearing off the shaft. I used a small hollow nut to protect the plastic shroud on the shaft, so that the centre of the puller pushed against metal instead of plastic.

[[Image:alternator3.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

6. Measure the bearing using a vernier. Mine was 35mmOD, 17mmID by 10mm -- SKF 6003.
Go here

Enter you bearing dimensions and obtain a product code. Then take that code over to ebay and see if you can find a 99p replacement!
You could go for an uprated high temperature bearing but make sure the rpm rating is up to the job.

7. Refit the new bearing by either using a deep socket and drift or make a press from a jack, some wood and wedge under something heavy.

8. Align the 2 halves of the alternator and refit the 4 long bolts, tighten each one a 1/4 turn until tight. Refit the electronics in the reverse of disassemble, making sure to push the commutator back in first.

[[Image:alternator4.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

9. Refit to the car, reconnect the wiring and tension the belt as above.

Alternator parts supplier
http://www.woodauto.com/Unit.aspx?Man=BOSCH&Ref=0124225011

Alternator

2009-08-27T11:58:50Z

AL...Ease: /* Alternator belt */

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

[[Image:alternator.jpg|thumb|left|Rover K Series Alternator]]
{{clr}}

==Alternator==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator Wikipedia on Alternator]

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator Problem Diagnosis==

Common failures:

Regulator & Rectifier failure:

Battery lights flash on dash, headlights flash on when trying to start. When checking the voltage across the battery terminals readings are usually less then 12v, or can be open circuit and go high voltage 18v. This can have a detrimental affect on the battery - boils the acid/fluid if too high. Easiest solution - Remove the alternator and get checked by auto electrican.

The battery warning light on dash and flashing headlights can also be caused by a flat battery. There is a clicking as the solenoid etc click over but the engine will not start.

Bearing Failure for S2 111s and other model with 4-2-1 exhaust:

Due to the additional width of the 4-2-1 pipes, failure of the rear bearing is not uncommon.
The heat from the pipes cooks the grease until the bearing runs dry and very loud.
Noise produced sounds like metal grinding against metal.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator belt==

You can change the alternator belt by taking off the rear drivers side wheel and plastic inner arch mud guard. Removing the undertray will give no advantage. You will just need a good socket set.

Loosen 'A' pivot bolt and 'B' tensioner bolt, to allow the alternator to 'swing'.

'C' on the diagram is the tensioner of the belt, loosen this to remove the belt. The tensioner bolt is the 8mm bolt on the end of the arm. It slots into the end of the arm and allows the adjustment. Difficult to see when peering in, but easy enough to locate.

The MG Rover part number for a belt for the S1 is PQS100840 and costs about £10.50 including VAT. - This part number may be correct if you're going to a Rover dealer, but UniPart gave me a different belt when I asked for that number, the correct belt was UniPart number GMV50738 - AL...Ease 27/08/09

'''Tension belt''' to the following on S2:
For heater cars - one way deflection of 6-8mm under moderate finger pressure
For AC cars - as previous but 9-10mm

[[Image:alternator1.jpg|thumb|left|Alternator as shown on elise S2]]
{{clr}}[[Image:servicealternator.jpg]]
{{clr}}

'''Removal of Alternator'''
This is same as above but in addition you need to remove the 2No. cables; one is bolted on to the rear of the alternator using a 13mm nut, the other is a clip-on connector. Before removing the nut and cables, disconnect the battery.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator Heat Protection==

Heat-shield fabrics claim to reflect up to 90% of the heat radiated by the exhaust and can function at temperatures unto 2000 degrees Fahrenheit.

The potential downside is that the critical components are also thermally insulated from the inside and could therefore suffer from internally generated heat, ie too much protection could make matter worse.

http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=289

http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=80

Material can be bought here :-

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=heat

There are option to improve the standard of the existing manifold sheilding or to wrap the exhaust. Both of which [[may]] just push the heat elsewhere and cause problems further down the line.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Sourcing Replacement==

It is not recommended to purchase Chinese manufactured pattern replacement alternators for the Elise, such as those commonly advertised on ebay. They are not built to withstand sustained high revs and are guaranteed to fail prematurely. These include:

*Unipoint (ALT-4212)

Known good models include:

*Magneti Marelli (63321239)
*Bosch - OE part
*02 111s BOSCH 0124225011

== Alternator Re-build ==

Should your alternator bearing pack up and you don't want to buy a new one (£165) or exchange (£120-140) or repair (£40), then you can always fix it yourself.

Doing this may stop you from being able to exchange an alternator at a later date, if you have any worries stop now.

1. Remove the alternator from the car as described above, access can only be achieved through the wheel arch, with the drivers rear wheel removed. Good luck getting it out between the engine mount and the fuel filler pipes, stick with it!

2. Once you've got the alternator on the bench remove the 2 nuts and the 1 screw holding the plastic cover on and remove, then undo the 2 screws (a&b) holding the electrical parts on - remove sideway and slide out with the commutators attached.

[[Image:alternator1a.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

3. Undo the 4 long bolts, I used a screw driver with a hex shaft and drove it round with a spanner.

4. Using a sturdy flat blade screw drive prise the 2 halves of the body apart. This takes time and you have to work methodically work round from one side to another.

[[Image:alternator2.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

5. Using a 2 or 3 leg puller pull the bearing off the shaft. I used a small hollow nut to protect the plastic shroud on the shaft, so that the centre of the puller pushed against metal instead of plastic.

[[Image:alternator3.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

6. Measure the bearing using a vernier. Mine was 35mmOD, 17mmID by 10mm -- SKF 6003.
Go here

Enter you bearing dimensions and obtain a product code. Then take that code over to ebay and see if you can find a 99p replacement!
You could go for an uprated high temperature bearing but make sure the rpm rating is up to the job.

7. Refit the new bearing by either using a deep socket and drift or make a press from a jack, some wood and wedge under something heavy.

8. Align the 2 halves of the alternator and refit the 4 long bolts, tighten each one a 1/4 turn until tight. Refit the electronics in the reverse of disassemble, making sure to push the commutator back in first.

[[Image:alternator4.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

9. Refit to the car, reconnect the wiring and tension the belt as above.

Alternator parts supplier
http://www.woodauto.com/Unit.aspx?Man=BOSCH&Ref=0124225011

Alternator

2009-08-27T11:56:31Z

AL...Ease:

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

[[Image:alternator.jpg|thumb|left|Rover K Series Alternator]]
{{clr}}

==Alternator==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator Wikipedia on Alternator]

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator Problem Diagnosis==

Common failures:

Regulator & Rectifier failure:

Battery lights flash on dash, headlights flash on when trying to start. When checking the voltage across the battery terminals readings are usually less then 12v, or can be open circuit and go high voltage 18v. This can have a detrimental affect on the battery - boils the acid/fluid if too high. Easiest solution - Remove the alternator and get checked by auto electrican.

The battery warning light on dash and flashing headlights can also be caused by a flat battery. There is a clicking as the solenoid etc click over but the engine will not start.

Bearing Failure for S2 111s and other model with 4-2-1 exhaust:

Due to the additional width of the 4-2-1 pipes, failure of the rear bearing is not uncommon.
The heat from the pipes cooks the grease until the bearing runs dry and very loud.
Noise produced sounds like metal grinding against metal.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator belt==

You can change the alternator belt by taking off the rear drivers side wheel and plastic inner arch mud guard. Removing the undertray will give no advantage. You will just need a good socket set.

Loosen 'A' pivot bolt and 'B' tensioner bolt, to allow the alternator to 'swing'.

'C' on the diagram is the tensioner of the belt, loosen this to remove the belt. The tensioner bolt is the 8mm bolt on the end of the arm. It slots into the end of the arm and allows the adjustment. Difficult to see when peering in, but easy enough to locate.

The MG Rover part number for a belt for the S1 is PQS100840 and costs about £10.50 including VAT. [i] This part number may be correct if you're going to a Rover dealer, but UniPart gave me a different belt when I asked for that number, the correct belt was UniPart number GMV50738 - AL...Ease 27/08/09[/i]

'''Tension belt''' to the following on S2:
For heater cars - one way deflection of 6-8mm under moderate finger pressure
For AC cars - as previous but 9-10mm

[[Image:alternator1.jpg|thumb|left|Alternator as shown on elise S2]]
{{clr}}[[Image:servicealternator.jpg]]
{{clr}}

'''Removal of Alternator'''
This is same as above but in addition you need to remove the 2No. cables; one is bolted on to the rear of the alternator using a 13mm nut, the other is a clip-on connector. Before removing the nut and cables, disconnect the battery.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator Heat Protection==

Heat-shield fabrics claim to reflect up to 90% of the heat radiated by the exhaust and can function at temperatures unto 2000 degrees Fahrenheit.

The potential downside is that the critical components are also thermally insulated from the inside and could therefore suffer from internally generated heat, ie too much protection could make matter worse.

http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=289

http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=80

Material can be bought here :-

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=heat

There are option to improve the standard of the existing manifold sheilding or to wrap the exhaust. Both of which [[may]] just push the heat elsewhere and cause problems further down the line.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Sourcing Replacement==

It is not recommended to purchase Chinese manufactured pattern replacement alternators for the Elise, such as those commonly advertised on ebay. They are not built to withstand sustained high revs and are guaranteed to fail prematurely. These include:

*Unipoint (ALT-4212)

Known good models include:

*Magneti Marelli (63321239)
*Bosch - OE part
*02 111s BOSCH 0124225011

== Alternator Re-build ==

Should your alternator bearing pack up and you don't want to buy a new one (£165) or exchange (£120-140) or repair (£40), then you can always fix it yourself.

Doing this may stop you from being able to exchange an alternator at a later date, if you have any worries stop now.

1. Remove the alternator from the car as described above, access can only be achieved through the wheel arch, with the drivers rear wheel removed. Good luck getting it out between the engine mount and the fuel filler pipes, stick with it!

2. Once you've got the alternator on the bench remove the 2 nuts and the 1 screw holding the plastic cover on and remove, then undo the 2 screws (a&b) holding the electrical parts on - remove sideway and slide out with the commutators attached.

[[Image:alternator1a.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

3. Undo the 4 long bolts, I used a screw driver with a hex shaft and drove it round with a spanner.

4. Using a sturdy flat blade screw drive prise the 2 halves of the body apart. This takes time and you have to work methodically work round from one side to another.

[[Image:alternator2.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

5. Using a 2 or 3 leg puller pull the bearing off the shaft. I used a small hollow nut to protect the plastic shroud on the shaft, so that the centre of the puller pushed against metal instead of plastic.

[[Image:alternator3.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

6. Measure the bearing using a vernier. Mine was 35mmOD, 17mmID by 10mm -- SKF 6003.
Go here

Enter you bearing dimensions and obtain a product code. Then take that code over to ebay and see if you can find a 99p replacement!
You could go for an uprated high temperature bearing but make sure the rpm rating is up to the job.

7. Refit the new bearing by either using a deep socket and drift or make a press from a jack, some wood and wedge under something heavy.

8. Align the 2 halves of the alternator and refit the 4 long bolts, tighten each one a 1/4 turn until tight. Refit the electronics in the reverse of disassemble, making sure to push the commutator back in first.

[[Image:alternator4.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

9. Refit to the car, reconnect the wiring and tension the belt as above.

Alternator parts supplier
http://www.woodauto.com/Unit.aspx?Man=BOSCH&Ref=0124225011

Normal running temperature

2009-05-19T21:55:26Z

AL...Ease: /* Temperature senders */

Listed below are temperature ranges from by SELOC members from their [[stack]] display within the car.

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0
! Model !! Engine !! Modifications from Standard !! Motorway (70mph) type crusing range (deg C)
|-
| S2 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Standard || 96-97
|-
| S2 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Eliseparts remote T-stat || 82-84
|-
| S2 || 2.0 Honda K20 || Eliseparts Hi-Pressure Alu rad || 84-86
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || || 89-91
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Eliseparts Hi-Pressure Alu rad || 85-86
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || PRT with PEL500150 || 84-85
|-
| S1 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Rover PRT 82° stat || 80-81
|-
| 1999 S1 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || || 86
|}

== Fan ==
The service manual states the fans at the front should automatically switch on when the coolant temperature rises above 100°C. The temperature should then fall and the fan switches when the temperature drops below 90°C.

== Temperature senders ==

The S1 has two [[Temperature sender]]s: brown (sends to ECU), blue (sends to dash). The blue temperature sender is notoriously unreliable and often fails, resulting in temperature readings approx 10°C lower than reality. The blue sender is also a "single wire" type which is affected by electrical load. In most cases, a 1°C rise in temperature can be seen when turning on each item of electrical equipment, e.g. headlights, heater fan, windscreen wipers.

The S2 (Rover engine) has a single (black) temperature sender for both ECU and dash.

The S2 (Toyota engine) has ???

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]

Normal running temperature

2009-05-19T21:55:00Z

AL...Ease:

Listed below are temperature ranges from by SELOC members from their [[stack]] display within the car.

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0
! Model !! Engine !! Modifications from Standard !! Motorway (70mph) type crusing range (deg C)
|-
| S2 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Standard || 96-97
|-
| S2 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Eliseparts remote T-stat || 82-84
|-
| S2 || 2.0 Honda K20 || Eliseparts Hi-Pressure Alu rad || 84-86
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || || 89-91
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Eliseparts Hi-Pressure Alu rad || 85-86
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || PRT with PEL500150 || 84-85
|-
| S1 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Rover PRT 82° stat || 80-81
|-
| 1999 S1 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || || 86
|}

== Fan ==
The service manual states the fans at the front should automatically switch on when the coolant temperature rises above 100°C. The temperature should then fall and the fan switches when the temperature drops below 90°C.

== Temperature senders ==
[[Temperature sender]]
The S1 has two temperature senders: brown (sends to ECU), blue (sends to dash). The blue temperature sender is notoriously unreliable and often fails, resulting in temperature readings approx 10°C lower than reality. The blue sender is also a "single wire" type which is affected by electrical load. In most cases, a 1°C rise in temperature can be seen when turning on each item of electrical equipment, e.g. headlights, heater fan, windscreen wipers.

The S2 (Rover engine) has a single (black) temperature sender for both ECU and dash.

The S2 (Toyota engine) has ???

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]

Normal running temperature

2009-05-19T21:54:04Z

AL...Ease: /* Temperature senders */

Listed below are temperature ranges from by SELOC members from their [[stack]] display within the car.

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0
! Model !! Engine !! Modifications from Standard !! Motorway (70mph) type crusing range (deg C)
|-
| S2 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Standard || 96-97
|-
| S2 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Eliseparts remote T-stat || 82-84
|-
| S2 || 2.0 Honda K20 || Eliseparts Hi-Pressure Alu rad || 84-86
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || || 89-91
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Eliseparts Hi-Pressure Alu rad || 85-86
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || PRT with PEL500150 || 84-85
|-
| S1 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Rover PRT 82° stat || 80-81
|-
| 1999 S1 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || || 86
|}

== Fan ==
The service manual states the fans at the front should automatically switch on when the coolant temperature rises above 100°C. The temperature should then fall and the fan switches when the temperature drops below 90°C.

== Temperature senders == [[Temperature sender]]
The S1 has two temperature senders: brown (sends to ECU), blue (sends to dash). The blue temperature sender is notoriously unreliable and often fails, resulting in temperature readings approx 10°C lower than reality. The blue sender is also a "single wire" type which is affected by electrical load. In most cases, a 1°C rise in temperature can be seen when turning on each item of electrical equipment, e.g. headlights, heater fan, windscreen wipers.

The S2 (Rover engine) has a single (black) temperature sender for both ECU and dash.

The S2 (Toyota engine) has ???

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]

Temperature sender

2009-05-19T21:52:50Z

AL...Ease:

The S1 has two temperature senders: brown (sends to ECU), blue (sends to dash). The blue temperature sender is notoriously unreliable and often fails, resulting in temperature readings approx 10°C lower than reality. The blue sender is also a "single wire" type which is affected by electrical load. In most cases, a 1°C rise in temperature can be seen when turning on each item of electrical equipment, e.g. headlights, heater fan, windscreen wipers.

The S2 (Rover engine) has a single (black) temperature sender for both ECU and dash.

The S2 (Toyota engine) has ???

Part numbers:

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0
! Car !! Sensor!! Rover No !! Unipart No!! Other No
|-
| Elise S1 || Brown || MEK100060 || GTR 313 / 185 || [http://www.eliseparts.com/products.php?product=152 Elise Parts]
|-
|-
| Elise S1 || Blue || YCB100420 || GTR 316 || [http://www.eliseparts.com/products.php?product=227 Elise Parts]
|-

Temperature sender

2009-05-19T21:47:48Z

AL...Ease:

Oil and filter change

2009-05-01T16:39:25Z

AL...Ease:

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will very if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Mr Wiki

2009-02-22T02:52:07Z

AL...Ease:

SELOC is the Hampshire forum.

Writing more shit than anyone else since 2006.
In desperate need of a speelchecker.

Personal Info:

Gareth, 6'8", has a fetish for superman t-shirts, unpowered racing, a bloke named Beak & circle-jerks.

He also has a sense of humour. Well, when we say "sense of humour", we mean that people laugh at him, not with him.

Shouts obscenities every time he gets killed in an online game.

[[Category:Misc]]