https://wikiug.seloc.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Dr.+Evil 2026-11-06T18:30:47Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.45.3 https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Starter_motor&diff=13888 2026-10-30T07:57:15Z

<p>Dr. Evil: typos</p> <hr /> <div>After decades of reliable service, the Rover K-Series starter motor can strain to turn the engine over and drain a marginal battery pretty quickly. <br /> <br /> A service of the starter motor can bring it back to its original starting power.<br /> <br /> # The starter motor has a permanent live cable running to the battery in the front service compartment.  Make sure the disconnect the battery before servicing the starter as it is very easy to short the live cable accidentally.<br /> # The starter is earthed to the chassis (big black wire).  It’s a good idea to check and clean the earth connections from the battery to the front of the chassis and from the starter to the rear of the chassis. A poor earth will rob the starter of power.<br /> # You need to remove the starter to service it. With the early bootbag S1, the starter can be accessed from above by removing the bootbag and bootpanel.  For later models, not sure how this is done, perhaps from the left side wheel well, or certainly easy to do access if the rear clam is off.<br /> # Once the battery is isolated, you can remove the earth, live and the trigger cables from the starter unit. Clean all these connections while here.<br /> # You need to remove the two M12 bolts that hold the starter to the bellhousing.  These are torqued to 80NM and have nuts on the other end of the bolts, so you will need a breaker bar on the bolt head and spanner on the nut to be able to remove.<br /> # The starter can then be removed from the engine bay for servicing.<br /> # Remove the two long bolts that sandwich the assembly together.<br /> # Remove the two screws that hold the brush holder to the rear housing.<br /> # At this point you can split the unit to give it a good clean of all the carbon deposits (eg with contact cleaner) and treat any rust which may have begun to take hold inside the housing.<br /> # Visually check for any burnt wiring or connections.  Inspect the brushes on the brush holder and the commutator segments.  They shouldn’t be too worn. <br /> # With a multi-meter set to lowest ohm settings, you can test the continuity of the windings on the commutator segments, first each segment to the core (should be OL – ie no shorts), then each to its next to its neighbor (should be about 0.3ohms), then each segment against its opposite side. (should be the same).<br /> # Carefully disassemble and give the drive housing and internal gears a good clean out with brake cleaner.  Very lightly re grease the gears with a good heavy duty molybdenum-based grease. Reassemble.<br /> # Inspect and lightly grease the front and rear brass bushes before reassembly.<br /> # Fit the armature back into the housing<br /> # To fit the brush holder to the armature, it is easiest to release the springs &amp; brushes from the back of each slot, refit the brush holder and then pop the springs and brushes back in.<br /> # Replace the rear cover and replace the 2 long bolts and two machine screws.<br /> # Refit the starter, torqueing the two M12 bolts to 80NM.<br /> # Refit the earth, live and starter trigger wires to the solenoid.  There may be one un-used tab on the solenoid which should be capped or taped off.<br /> # Reconnect that battery. Job Done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> <br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> <br /> [[Category:S2]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Starter_motor&diff=13882 2026-10-23T14:48:26Z

<p>Dr. Evil: </p> <hr /> <div>After decades of reliable service, the Rover K-Series starter motor can become anemic and drain a marginal battery pretty quickly. <br /> <br /> A service of the starter motor can bring it back to its original starting power.<br /> <br /> # The starter motor has a permanent live cable running to the battery in the front service compartment.  Make sure the disconnect the battery before servicing the starter as it is very easy to short that cable accidentally.<br /> # The starter is earthed to the chassis (big black wire).  It’s a good idea to check and clean the earth connections from the battery to the front of the chassis and from the starter to the rear of the chassis. A poor earth will rob the starter of power.<br /> # You need to remove the starter to service it; with the early bootbag S1, this can be done easily by removing the bootbag and bootpanel.  For later models, not sure how this is done, perhaps from the left side wheel well, or certainly easy to do access if the rear clam is off.<br /> # Once the battery is isolated, you can remove the earth, live and the trigger cables from the starter unit. Clean all these connections while here.<br /> # You need to remove the two M12 bolts that hold the starter to the bellhousing.  These are torqued to 80NM and have nuts on the other end of the bolts, so you will need a breaker bar and spanner on the nuts to be able to remove the bolts.<br /> # The starter can then be removed from the engine bay for servicing.<br /> # Remove the two long bolts that sandwich the assembly together.<br /> # Remove the two screws that hold the brush holder to the rear housing.<br /> # At this point you can split the unit to give it a good clean of all the carbon deposits (eg with contact cleaner) and treat any rust which may begin to take hold inside the housing. <br /> # Visually check for any burnt wiring or connections.  Inspect the brushes on the brush holder and the commutator segments.  They shouldn’t be too worn. <br /> # With a multi-meter set to lowest ohm settings, you can test the continuity of the windings on the commutator segments, first each segment to the core (should be OL – ie no shorts), then each to its next to its neighbor (should be about 0.3ohms), then each segment against its opposite side. (should be the same).<br /> # Carefully disassemble and give the drive housing and internal gears a good clean out with brake cleaner.  Very lightly regrease the gears with a good heavy duty Molybdenum-based grease. Reassemble.<br /> # Inspect and lightly grease the front and rear brash bushes before reassembly.<br /> # Fit the armature back into the housing<br /> # To fit the brush holders, it is easiest to release the springs from each holder, refit the brush holder and then pop the springs back in.<br /> # Replace the rear cover and replace the 2 long bolts and two machine screws.<br /> # Refit the starter, torqueing the two M12 bolts to 80NM.<br /> # Refit the earth, live and starter trigger wires to the solenoid.  There may be one un-used tab on the solenoid which should be capped or taped off.<br /> # Reconnect that battery. Job Done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> <br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> <br /> [[Category:S2]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Starter_motor&diff=13881 2026-10-23T14:47:35Z

<p>Dr. Evil: added categories</p> <hr /> <div>&lt;nowiki&gt;[[Category:Lotus Elise]]&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;nowiki&gt;[[Category:S1]]&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;nowiki&gt;[[Category:S2]]&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> <br /> After decades of reliable service, the Rover K-Series starter motor can become anemic and drain a marginal battery pretty quickly. <br /> <br /> A service of the starter motor can bring it back to its original starting power.<br /> <br /> # The starter motor has a permanent live cable running to the battery in the front service compartment.  Make sure the disconnect the battery before servicing the starter as it is very easy to short that cable accidentally.<br /> # The starter is earthed to the chassis (big black wire).  It’s a good idea to check and clean the earth connections from the battery to the front of the chassis and from the starter to the rear of the chassis. A poor earth will rob the starter of power.<br /> # You need to remove the starter to service it; with the early bootbag S1, this can be done easily by removing the bootbag and bootpanel.  For later models, not sure how this is done, perhaps from the left side wheel well, or certainly easy to do access if the rear clam is off.<br /> # Once the battery is isolated, you can remove the earth, live and the trigger cables from the starter unit. Clean all these connections while here.<br /> # You need to remove the two M12 bolts that hold the starter to the bellhousing.  These are torqued to 80NM and have nuts on the other end of the bolts, so you will need a breaker bar and spanner on the nuts to be able to remove the bolts.<br /> # The starter can then be removed from the engine bay for servicing.<br /> # Remove the two long bolts that sandwich the assembly together.<br /> # Remove the two screws that hold the brush holder to the rear housing.<br /> # At this point you can split the unit to give it a good clean of all the carbon deposits (eg with contact cleaner) and treat any rust which may begin to take hold inside the housing. <br /> # Visually check for any burnt wiring or connections.  Inspect the brushes on the brush holder and the commutator segments.  They shouldn’t be too worn. <br /> # With a multi-meter set to lowest ohm settings, you can test the continuity of the windings on the commutator segments, first each segment to the core (should be OL – ie no shorts), then each to its next to its neighbor (should be about 0.3ohms), then each segment against its opposite side. (should be the same).<br /> # Carefully disassemble and give the drive housing and internal gears a good clean out with brake cleaner.  Very lightly regrease the gears with a good heavy duty Molybdenum-based grease. Reassemble.<br /> # Inspect and lightly grease the front and rear brash bushes before reassembly.<br /> # Fit the armature back into the housing<br /> # To fit the brush holders, it is easiest to release the springs from each holder, refit the brush holder and then pop the springs back in.<br /> # Replace the rear cover and replace the 2 long bolts and two machine screws.<br /> # Refit the starter, torqueing the two M12 bolts to 80NM.<br /> # Refit the earth, live and starter trigger wires to the solenoid.  There may be one un-used tab on the solenoid which should be capped or taped off.<br /> # Reconnect that battery. Job Done!</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Starter_motor&diff=13880 2026-10-23T14:39:21Z

<p>Dr. Evil: new page</p> <hr /> <div>After decades of reliable service, the Rover K-Series starter motor can become anemic and drain a marginal battery pretty quickly. <br /> <br /> A service of the starter motor can bring it back to its original starting power.<br /> <br /> # The starter motor has a permanent live cable running to the battery in the front service compartment.  Make sure the disconnect the battery before servicing the starter as it is very easy to short that cable accidentally.<br /> # The starter is earthed to the chassis (big black wire).  It’s a good idea to check and clean the earth connections from the battery to the front of the chassis and from the starter to the rear of the chassis. A poor earth will rob the starter of power.<br /> # You need to remove the starter to service it; with the early bootbag S1, this can be done easily by removing the bootbag and bootpanel.  For later models, not sure how this is done, perhaps from the left side wheel well, or certainly easy to do access if the rear clam is off.<br /> # Once the battery is isolated, you can remove the earth, live and the trigger cables from the starter unit. Clean all these connections while here.<br /> # You need to remove the two M12 bolts that hold the starter to the bellhousing.  These are torqued to 80NM and have nuts on the other end of the bolts, so you will need a breaker bar and spanner on the nuts to be able to remove the bolts.<br /> # The starter can then be removed from the engine bay for servicing.<br /> # Remove the two long bolts that sandwich the assembly together.<br /> # Remove the two screws that hold the brush holder to the rear housing.<br /> # At this point you can split the unit to give it a good clean of all the carbon deposits (eg with contact cleaner) and treat any rust which may begin to take hold inside the housing. <br /> # Visually check for any burnt wiring or connections.  Inspect the brushes on the brush holder and the commutator segments.  They shouldn’t be too worn. <br /> # With a multi-meter set to lowest ohm settings, you can test the continuity of the windings on the commutator segments, first each segment to the core (should be OL – ie no shorts), then each to its next to its neighbor (should be about 0.3ohms), then each segment against its opposite side. (should be the same).<br /> # Carefully disassemble and give the drive housing and internal gears a good clean out with brake cleaner.  Very lightly regrease the gears with a good heavy duty Molybdenum-based grease. Reassemble.<br /> # Inspect and lightly grease the front and rear brash bushes before reassembly.<br /> # Fit the armature back into the housing<br /> # To fit the brush holders, it is easiest to release the springs from each holder, refit the brush holder and then pop the springs back in.<br /> # Replace the rear cover and replace the 2 long bolts and two machine screws.<br /> # Refit the starter, torqueing the two M12 bolts to 80NM.<br /> # Refit the earth, live and starter trigger wires to the solenoid.  There may be one un-used tab on the solenoid which should be capped or taped off.<br /> # Reconnect that battery. Job Done!</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Cambelt&diff=13782 2026-01-04T20:36:28Z

<p>Dr. Evil: /* Part numbers */</p> <hr /> <div>'''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION, WORK IN PROGRESS'''<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Part numbers===<br /> <br /> For auto tensioner: (145 teeth, 1160mm long, 26mm wide)<br /> <br /> Rover pt no, LHN100560<br /> <br /> Gates pt no. 5497XS<br /> <br /> Piper pt no TBP33<br /> <br /> auto tensioner p/n LHP100900P<br /> <br /> Water pump p/n PEB102511<br /> <br /> <br /> For manual tensioner (143 teeth, 1144mm long, 26 mm wide):<br /> <br /> Rover pt no. LHN100390<br /> <br /> Gates pt no. 5416XS<br /> <br /> Continental CT929 (belt only) / CT929K2 (with manual tensioner)<br /> <br /> Piper pt no. TBP17 wide<br /> <br /> Manual tensioner p/n LHP10015<br /> <br /> Water pump p/n PEB102511<br /> <br /> ===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===<br /> <br /> It is much easier to change the cambelt with the rear clam off but this is not necessary and access through the drivers rear wheel arch with the liner removed is still excellent compared to most 16v engines. <br /> <br /> Instructions are for a &quot;clam on&quot; change<br /> <br /> The rear of the car needs to be a high as possible to allow access to loosen and torque up the crank bolt (210Nm is tight)<br /> <br /> ((CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE ))<br /> <br /> ===Tools Required===<br /> <br /> You will require a cut down 22mm socket to fit in the limited space between the crank pulley and the chassis (a 6 sided socket is stronger than a 12sided. Silverline do one for a couple of ££'s from Amazon)<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt2.jpg|thumb|none|Gap]]<br /> [[File:22mm Socket Marked.JPG|thumb|none]]<br /> [[File:Cambelt4.jpg|thumb|none]]<br /> <br /> You will also need a<br /> <br /> . 1/2&quot; breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt. As long as possible (don't try and use a ratchet handle, you'll break it and get a hernia to boot) <br /> <br /> . a torque wrench capable of operating up to 210Nm (with a slim head if possible)<br /> <br /> . A Rover K Series camshaft locking tool<br /> <br /> ===Method===<br /> <br /> 1. Run the rear of the car up on ramps if you have them and remove the rear undertray and diffuser. Loosen the RHS rear wheel nuts while the weight of the car is still on the wheel <br /> <br /> 2. Remove the spark plugs (this will allow the engine to be turned over much easier <br /> using the crank bolt as required below<br /> <br /> 3. Jack up the RHS of car higher still and place axle stands at the B and C positions in the diagram (if you don't have ramps then jack and support with axle stands in stages, as the tilt on the car can easily cause it to slip off a jack on it own)<br /> <br /> [[File:Jacking Positions.JPG|thumb|none]].<br /> <br /> Try and get the car high enough that you can kneel with your head inside the rear wheel arch (when the liner is out) as this is a comfortable working position allowing you to reach into the engine bay through the arch<br /> <br /> 4. Move the ramp out of your way and remove RHS rear wheel<br /> <br /> 5. Remove RHS rear wheel arch liner<br /> <br /> 6. You may wish to remove the brake disc on the RHS rear wheel to allow greater access into the wheel arch when working (it is not necessary to do this)<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt1.jpg|thumb|none|View with Liner Out]]<br /> <br /> 7. Loosen the pivot bolt and clamp bolt on the alternator<br /> <br /> 8. Loosen the adjuster bolt to move the alternator towards the engine and provide slack on the the belt. The bolt has a fine pitch so expect to turn it many times before the belt slackens (If you intend to refit the existing alternator belt, before undoing the adjuster bolt, mark the position of the clamp bolt on the slotted bracket, so that you know exactly where to tighten the belt up to on reassembly)<br /> <br /> [[File:Alternator Diagram.JPG|thumb|none|Alternator bolts]]<br /> <br /> 9. Remove the alternator belt<br /> <br /> 10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and manoeuvre it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit). It can also help to loosen the two RHS engine mount bolts by about a centimeter to lower the engine. This gives more access to remove the upper cambelt cover, and it also gives more room to access the crank bolt.<br /> <br /> Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt3.jpg|thumb|none|Top Cover Removed]]<br /> <br /> 11. Before loosening the crank bolt place a suitably sized screwdriver or allen key in the visible flywheel ring gear next to the drivers side driveshaft to prevent the engine rotating (I found an allen key much less likely to slip)<br /> <br /> [[File:Allen Key Crank Lock.JPG|thumb|none|Crank Locked with Allen Key]]<br /> <br /> 12. From under the car and using the breaker bar with the cut down socket, loosen the crank bolt (you are likely to have to brace your knees/feet against the underside to gain enough purchase to undo the bolt. Folk on here have snapped breaker bars doing this, so take care)<br /> <br /> 13. Remove the crank bolt, the large washer (note orientation) and then the crank pulley<br /> <br /> [[File:Crank Pulley and Bolt.JPG|thumb|none]]<br /> <br /> 14(a). Remove the lower cam cover (3 bolts, 8mm socket/spanner)<br /> <br /> 14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.<br /> <br /> 15(a). Before removing the cambelt the engine requires to be placed in a known positioned with No1 piston (closest to belt end) at 90deg BTDC. As a visual aid to help find 90 BTDC, place a long screwdriver/large tie wrap/clean garden cane etc etc down through hole where you removed the spark plug on cylinder 1. It will rest on the piston crown and rise and fall with the engine rotation as required in part 16 and indicate piston location and direction. ***Make sure that whatever you use is long enough so that it does not fall into the engine at piston BDC !!! ***<br /> <br /> 15(b). Its worth highlighting the camshaft sprocket alignment marks, the crankshaft sprocket alignment marks and the engine block alignment mark with some Tippex (or white paint) for ease of viewing<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt5.jpg|thumb|none|Camshaft Alignment Marks]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt6.jpg|thumb|none|Crankshaft and Block Alignment Marks]] <br /> <br /> 16. Remove the screwdriver/allen key from the flywheel teeth, and with the car out of gear. Turn the engine using a rachet/spanner on the crank bolt (only ever turn clockwise), until the camshaft and crank shaft alignment mark line up as above AND the visual aid in cylinder 1 shows the piston is half way up the cylinder on the rise. Camshaft sprocket marks should face each other in a line with the centre bolts of each shaft. The crank dimple marks should straddle the block mark.<br /> <br /> [[File:K Alignment Marks.JPG|thumb|none|K Series Camshaft Alignment Marks]]<br /> <br /> 17. Replace the screwdriver or allen key in the flywheel and place the camshaft locking tool into place<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt7.jpg|thumb|none|Cam Locking Tool]]<br /> <br /> 18. Mark the old belt/sprockets at both cams and on the crank. When the old belt is off, transfer these marks to the new belt (carefully count the belt teeth). When fitting the new, the marks will ensure it is not out by a tooth anywhere along its length (the K series will run without damage when the belt is out by a tooth either way but not very well!!).<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt8.jpg|thumb|none|Belt to Sprocket Double Check]]<br /> <br /> 19. Unbolt the tensioner centre bolt, remove the tensioner and slide off the cambelt.<br /> <br /> 20. The engine mount prevents the old belt from being removed completely. There are two ways of getting the old belt out and new one in <br /> <br /> 20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):<br /> The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt in between the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque (82NM). <br /> <br /> [[File:Engine Mount.JPG|thumb|none|Engine Mount]]<br /> <br /> 20b The alternative method, is to place a trolley jack under the engine (use a piece of wood between to spread the contact load), jack the engine up slightly and remove the engine mount bolts completely. Takes a bit longer and if the engine moves ever so slightly back or forward it can be a PITA to get the bolts started in the threads again<br /> <br /> ===Waterpump Change===<br /> <br /> 21 If you intend to change the waterpump as well (and if you're in here already its probably worth it !!), now is the time to do it. Drain the coolant by undoing and hoses that enter both side rails at the rear of the car<br /> <br /> 22. Unbolt the old pump and remove it. (Expect more coolant to flow from the engine block). There are 6 bolts circled in the photo. The top left is bolted from the rear side, the bottom right is a pillar bolt (used for the front cover as well) and there are two dowels, squared in the photo. Check that the old rubber sealant ring was removed with the old pump and if there is any corrosion around the face/dowels remove with wet an dry paper. The block surface should be clean to allow the new pump to fit well <br /> <br /> [[File:Waterpump Bolts.JPG|thumb|none|Waterpump Bolts and Dowels]] <br /> <br /> 23. Ensuring the new sealant ring is in place in the groove on the new pump and fit the pump (you can use some (proper) automotive RTV silicon to hold the new sealant ring in place if required). Tighten the bolts in stages alternating between diagonally opposite bolts to 10Nm<br /> <br /> ===Cambelt Continued===<br /> <br /> 24. Before fitting the new tensioner, it is advisable to mark the end of the tensioner wire pointer with a drop of Tippex/white paint to alow it to be seen clearer during positioning<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt10.jpg|thumb|none|New Tensioner on left with Pointer Marked]]<br /> <br /> 25. Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner will wobble quite freely to give some freeplay while fitting the new belt. Ensure that the wire loop on the tensioner is hooked behind the bolt on the block.<br /> <br /> The tensioner lever (the part where the allen key fits, should be at the 9 o'clock position)<br /> <br /> [[File:Auto Tensioner Wire.JPG|thumb|none|Tensioner Wire Hook Position]]<br /> <br /> 25a. Manual Tensioner - Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner can pivot. Fit the smaller retaining bolt loosely in the slot. <br /> <br /> 26. Fit the new belt onto the crank pulley first. If you marked the belt as per section 18 above, line up the mark on the belt with the sprocket mark. Fit the belt so that approx half of the width is on the sprocket/half is hanging off the front edge. Again this gives you more leeway/flex with the belt as you feed it on.<br /> <br /> 27. Keeping the long RHS of the belt taught, feed it over the RHS (exhaust) cam sprocket then over the LHS (inlet) cam sprocket, again lining up the white marks you placed on it earlier and again only pushing the belt on half way<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt12.jpg|thumb|none|New Belt - Aligning Crank Sprocket Mark]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt11.jpg|thumb|none|New Belt - Aligning Cam Sprocket Marks]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 28. Feed the belt up around the water pump then around tensioner. Once around all the mounting points you can then push the belt fully onto all the sprockets until seated fully<br /> <br /> 29. Tighten the tensioner centre bolt, not fully, but enough to pull it against the block<br /> <br /> 30 From the service manual:-<br /> <br /> [[File:Auto Tensioner Setup.JPG|thumb|none|Auto Tensioner Adjustment]]<br /> <br /> 30a. &quot;Tighten the centre bolt until it is just possible to move the tensioner lever&quot;<br /> <br /> 30b. &quot;check the belt is central around gears and pulleys<br /> <br /> 30c. &quot;Using a 6mm Allen Key, rotate tensioner anti-clockwise and align the centre of the indent on the tensioner pointer to the index wire<br /> <br /> ENSURE that the pointer approaches the index wire from above. Should pointer go past index wire, release tension completely and repeat tensioning procedure&quot; <br /> <br /> 30d. &quot;Ensuring that the pointer maintains the correct position, tighten centre bolt to 25Nm&quot;<br /> <br /> (It is quite difficult to hold the allen key on the lever and use a torque wrench in this location. If you tighten this bolt up using the &quot;calibrated hand&quot; method, do not overtighten the bolt. <br /> <br /> 30e. Manual tensioner - lever the edge of the tensioner bracket upwards with a flathead screwdriver until the belt is held tight enough so that you can twist the right-hand side of the belt (in the middle of the longest run) between 70 and 90 degrees) with your fingers. Tighten the M6 securing bolt to 10nm to hold the tensioner in place. Tighten the tensioner centre bolt to 45NM.<br /> <br /> 31. Remove the cam locking tool and the crank locking allen key/scredriver and using a ratchet on the crank bolt, rotate the engine 2 turns clockwise. Check the tensioner pointer is still in the correct position<br /> <br /> 32. Remove the crank bolt, refit the cambelt lower cover. 3 bolts, 10nm<br /> <br /> 33. Ensuring the mating surfaces of the crank pulley, washer, bolt and sprocket are clean, refit the crank pulley, washer and bolt. (Do not use a thread lock compound). Make sure the notch on the pulley is keyed to the crank before tightening the bolt hand tight<br /> <br /> 34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to 205Nm. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series<br /> <br /> 35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver !!!!<br /> <br /> 36. Refit the alternator belt<br /> <br /> 37. Refit the upper cam belt cover (be careful that the rubber sealing gasket on the lower edge is in the correct place. Its easily knocked off)<br /> <br /> 37a. if you loosened the engine mount bolts, tighten them up and torque to 82NM.<br /> <br /> 38. If you have changed the water pump, reconnect all coolant hoses and refill the system with new coolant.<br /> <br /> 39. I always turn the car over on the starter with the spark plugs removed just as a double triple check that all is well. (not advisable on cars with coil packs as they can be damaged. Better to remove the power to the fuel pump) If it doesn't rattle like a bag of nails :-), then refit the spark plugs and leads, start the engine <br /> <br /> 40. Lower the car and bleed the cooling system per the service manual or <br /> <br /> http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Bleed_the_cooling_system<br /> <br /> CHOPPER.<br /> <br /> ===NOTES=== <br /> <br /> 1. Alternative methods used to lock the crank include having the car in gear and an assistant press on the brakes VERY hard. It has worked for some and it appears OK for loosening the crank bolt but when doing up any slipage will throw out the timing !!!<br /> <br /> Another method to undo the crank bolt that has been used is jam the socket and breaker bar against the groung/something very rigid, and use the starter motor to turn the engine. The bolt being held will undo as the crank turns. Use this method at your own risk.... and make sure the car is out of gear when you do it<br /> <br /> Another method to block the crank bolt when you remove/put the pulley :<br /> [[File:manual.jpg|thumb|left]][[File:IMG_0065 (Personnalisé).JPG|thumb]]<br /> <br /> <br /> * Make sure the car is out of gear<br /> <br /> * Unscrew the starter (bolts n°25 &amp; 27) and take off the rear closure plate (n°26).<br /> <br /> * Then you have accesse to the flywheel... Now you need a strong cornered plate that you'll can wedge between the sump and the flywheel. Put it in the red position when you unscrew the pulley (like in the picture), put it in the blue position when you screw back the pulley...<br /> <br /> * Just have to put back the starter and the closure plate when you're done.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 2. There have been a small number if instances reported where the cambelt centre tensioner bolt has become seized to the block through corrosion/overzealous tightening or the use of thread lock. Before stripping the engine to find this may be the case (and you now have a car that is incapable of being driven to a garage/mechanic), you may wish to check the tensioner bolt will loosen. This is possible by removing the upper cam belt cover before all else and trying to move the bolt a quarter turn. If it moves, tighten it back up and follow the normal procedure above<br /> <br /> <br /> Useful video:<br /> http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/index.htm<br /> <br /> Useful link to another guide fitting the manual tensioner<br /> http://www.tadts.com/instructions/engine/100016.html<br /> <br /> Quick Guide<br /> <br /> Thread here: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=314945&amp;page=1#pid5349364<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Tensioner===<br /> <br /> <br /> '''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''<br /> <br /> Auto or Manual<br /> <br /> I looked at the information on Eliseparts to ascertain if our engine was fitted with a manual or auto tensioner.<br /> It sugested auto, i purchased an auto one but it turnd out to be a manual.<br /> be warned, eliseparts will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.<br /> <br /> ===See Also===<br /> <br /> <br /> '''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''<br /> <br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Cambelt&diff=13781 2026-01-04T20:35:36Z

<p>Dr. Evil: /* Part numbers */</p> <hr /> <div>'''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION, WORK IN PROGRESS'''<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Part numbers===<br /> <br /> For auto tensioner:<br /> <br /> Rover pt no, LHN100560<br /> <br /> Gates pt no. 5497XS<br /> <br /> Piper pt no TBP33<br /> <br /> auto tensioner p/n LHP100900P<br /> <br /> Water pump p/n PEB102511<br /> <br /> <br /> For manual tensioner (143 teeth):<br /> <br /> Rover pt no. LHN100390<br /> <br /> Gates pt no. 5416XS<br /> <br /> Continental CT929 (belt only) / CT929K2 (with manual tensioner)<br /> <br /> Piper pt no. TBP17 wide<br /> <br /> Manual tensioner p/n LHP10015<br /> <br /> Water pump p/n PEB102511<br /> <br /> ===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===<br /> <br /> It is much easier to change the cambelt with the rear clam off but this is not necessary and access through the drivers rear wheel arch with the liner removed is still excellent compared to most 16v engines. <br /> <br /> Instructions are for a &quot;clam on&quot; change<br /> <br /> The rear of the car needs to be a high as possible to allow access to loosen and torque up the crank bolt (210Nm is tight)<br /> <br /> ((CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE ))<br /> <br /> ===Tools Required===<br /> <br /> You will require a cut down 22mm socket to fit in the limited space between the crank pulley and the chassis (a 6 sided socket is stronger than a 12sided. Silverline do one for a couple of ££'s from Amazon)<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt2.jpg|thumb|none|Gap]]<br /> [[File:22mm Socket Marked.JPG|thumb|none]]<br /> [[File:Cambelt4.jpg|thumb|none]]<br /> <br /> You will also need a<br /> <br /> . 1/2&quot; breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt. As long as possible (don't try and use a ratchet handle, you'll break it and get a hernia to boot) <br /> <br /> . a torque wrench capable of operating up to 210Nm (with a slim head if possible)<br /> <br /> . A Rover K Series camshaft locking tool<br /> <br /> ===Method===<br /> <br /> 1. Run the rear of the car up on ramps if you have them and remove the rear undertray and diffuser. Loosen the RHS rear wheel nuts while the weight of the car is still on the wheel <br /> <br /> 2. Remove the spark plugs (this will allow the engine to be turned over much easier <br /> using the crank bolt as required below<br /> <br /> 3. Jack up the RHS of car higher still and place axle stands at the B and C positions in the diagram (if you don't have ramps then jack and support with axle stands in stages, as the tilt on the car can easily cause it to slip off a jack on it own)<br /> <br /> [[File:Jacking Positions.JPG|thumb|none]].<br /> <br /> Try and get the car high enough that you can kneel with your head inside the rear wheel arch (when the liner is out) as this is a comfortable working position allowing you to reach into the engine bay through the arch<br /> <br /> 4. Move the ramp out of your way and remove RHS rear wheel<br /> <br /> 5. Remove RHS rear wheel arch liner<br /> <br /> 6. You may wish to remove the brake disc on the RHS rear wheel to allow greater access into the wheel arch when working (it is not necessary to do this)<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt1.jpg|thumb|none|View with Liner Out]]<br /> <br /> 7. Loosen the pivot bolt and clamp bolt on the alternator<br /> <br /> 8. Loosen the adjuster bolt to move the alternator towards the engine and provide slack on the the belt. The bolt has a fine pitch so expect to turn it many times before the belt slackens (If you intend to refit the existing alternator belt, before undoing the adjuster bolt, mark the position of the clamp bolt on the slotted bracket, so that you know exactly where to tighten the belt up to on reassembly)<br /> <br /> [[File:Alternator Diagram.JPG|thumb|none|Alternator bolts]]<br /> <br /> 9. Remove the alternator belt<br /> <br /> 10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and manoeuvre it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit). It can also help to loosen the two RHS engine mount bolts by about a centimeter to lower the engine. This gives more access to remove the upper cambelt cover, and it also gives more room to access the crank bolt.<br /> <br /> Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt3.jpg|thumb|none|Top Cover Removed]]<br /> <br /> 11. Before loosening the crank bolt place a suitably sized screwdriver or allen key in the visible flywheel ring gear next to the drivers side driveshaft to prevent the engine rotating (I found an allen key much less likely to slip)<br /> <br /> [[File:Allen Key Crank Lock.JPG|thumb|none|Crank Locked with Allen Key]]<br /> <br /> 12. From under the car and using the breaker bar with the cut down socket, loosen the crank bolt (you are likely to have to brace your knees/feet against the underside to gain enough purchase to undo the bolt. Folk on here have snapped breaker bars doing this, so take care)<br /> <br /> 13. Remove the crank bolt, the large washer (note orientation) and then the crank pulley<br /> <br /> [[File:Crank Pulley and Bolt.JPG|thumb|none]]<br /> <br /> 14(a). Remove the lower cam cover (3 bolts, 8mm socket/spanner)<br /> <br /> 14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.<br /> <br /> 15(a). Before removing the cambelt the engine requires to be placed in a known positioned with No1 piston (closest to belt end) at 90deg BTDC. As a visual aid to help find 90 BTDC, place a long screwdriver/large tie wrap/clean garden cane etc etc down through hole where you removed the spark plug on cylinder 1. It will rest on the piston crown and rise and fall with the engine rotation as required in part 16 and indicate piston location and direction. ***Make sure that whatever you use is long enough so that it does not fall into the engine at piston BDC !!! ***<br /> <br /> 15(b). Its worth highlighting the camshaft sprocket alignment marks, the crankshaft sprocket alignment marks and the engine block alignment mark with some Tippex (or white paint) for ease of viewing<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt5.jpg|thumb|none|Camshaft Alignment Marks]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt6.jpg|thumb|none|Crankshaft and Block Alignment Marks]] <br /> <br /> 16. Remove the screwdriver/allen key from the flywheel teeth, and with the car out of gear. Turn the engine using a rachet/spanner on the crank bolt (only ever turn clockwise), until the camshaft and crank shaft alignment mark line up as above AND the visual aid in cylinder 1 shows the piston is half way up the cylinder on the rise. Camshaft sprocket marks should face each other in a line with the centre bolts of each shaft. The crank dimple marks should straddle the block mark.<br /> <br /> [[File:K Alignment Marks.JPG|thumb|none|K Series Camshaft Alignment Marks]]<br /> <br /> 17. Replace the screwdriver or allen key in the flywheel and place the camshaft locking tool into place<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt7.jpg|thumb|none|Cam Locking Tool]]<br /> <br /> 18. Mark the old belt/sprockets at both cams and on the crank. When the old belt is off, transfer these marks to the new belt (carefully count the belt teeth). When fitting the new, the marks will ensure it is not out by a tooth anywhere along its length (the K series will run without damage when the belt is out by a tooth either way but not very well!!).<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt8.jpg|thumb|none|Belt to Sprocket Double Check]]<br /> <br /> 19. Unbolt the tensioner centre bolt, remove the tensioner and slide off the cambelt.<br /> <br /> 20. The engine mount prevents the old belt from being removed completely. There are two ways of getting the old belt out and new one in <br /> <br /> 20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):<br /> The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt in between the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque (82NM). <br /> <br /> [[File:Engine Mount.JPG|thumb|none|Engine Mount]]<br /> <br /> 20b The alternative method, is to place a trolley jack under the engine (use a piece of wood between to spread the contact load), jack the engine up slightly and remove the engine mount bolts completely. Takes a bit longer and if the engine moves ever so slightly back or forward it can be a PITA to get the bolts started in the threads again<br /> <br /> ===Waterpump Change===<br /> <br /> 21 If you intend to change the waterpump as well (and if you're in here already its probably worth it !!), now is the time to do it. Drain the coolant by undoing and hoses that enter both side rails at the rear of the car<br /> <br /> 22. Unbolt the old pump and remove it. (Expect more coolant to flow from the engine block). There are 6 bolts circled in the photo. The top left is bolted from the rear side, the bottom right is a pillar bolt (used for the front cover as well) and there are two dowels, squared in the photo. Check that the old rubber sealant ring was removed with the old pump and if there is any corrosion around the face/dowels remove with wet an dry paper. The block surface should be clean to allow the new pump to fit well <br /> <br /> [[File:Waterpump Bolts.JPG|thumb|none|Waterpump Bolts and Dowels]] <br /> <br /> 23. Ensuring the new sealant ring is in place in the groove on the new pump and fit the pump (you can use some (proper) automotive RTV silicon to hold the new sealant ring in place if required). Tighten the bolts in stages alternating between diagonally opposite bolts to 10Nm<br /> <br /> ===Cambelt Continued===<br /> <br /> 24. Before fitting the new tensioner, it is advisable to mark the end of the tensioner wire pointer with a drop of Tippex/white paint to alow it to be seen clearer during positioning<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt10.jpg|thumb|none|New Tensioner on left with Pointer Marked]]<br /> <br /> 25. Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner will wobble quite freely to give some freeplay while fitting the new belt. Ensure that the wire loop on the tensioner is hooked behind the bolt on the block.<br /> <br /> The tensioner lever (the part where the allen key fits, should be at the 9 o'clock position)<br /> <br /> [[File:Auto Tensioner Wire.JPG|thumb|none|Tensioner Wire Hook Position]]<br /> <br /> 25a. Manual Tensioner - Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner can pivot. Fit the smaller retaining bolt loosely in the slot. <br /> <br /> 26. Fit the new belt onto the crank pulley first. If you marked the belt as per section 18 above, line up the mark on the belt with the sprocket mark. Fit the belt so that approx half of the width is on the sprocket/half is hanging off the front edge. Again this gives you more leeway/flex with the belt as you feed it on.<br /> <br /> 27. Keeping the long RHS of the belt taught, feed it over the RHS (exhaust) cam sprocket then over the LHS (inlet) cam sprocket, again lining up the white marks you placed on it earlier and again only pushing the belt on half way<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt12.jpg|thumb|none|New Belt - Aligning Crank Sprocket Mark]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt11.jpg|thumb|none|New Belt - Aligning Cam Sprocket Marks]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 28. Feed the belt up around the water pump then around tensioner. Once around all the mounting points you can then push the belt fully onto all the sprockets until seated fully<br /> <br /> 29. Tighten the tensioner centre bolt, not fully, but enough to pull it against the block<br /> <br /> 30 From the service manual:-<br /> <br /> [[File:Auto Tensioner Setup.JPG|thumb|none|Auto Tensioner Adjustment]]<br /> <br /> 30a. &quot;Tighten the centre bolt until it is just possible to move the tensioner lever&quot;<br /> <br /> 30b. &quot;check the belt is central around gears and pulleys<br /> <br /> 30c. &quot;Using a 6mm Allen Key, rotate tensioner anti-clockwise and align the centre of the indent on the tensioner pointer to the index wire<br /> <br /> ENSURE that the pointer approaches the index wire from above. Should pointer go past index wire, release tension completely and repeat tensioning procedure&quot; <br /> <br /> 30d. &quot;Ensuring that the pointer maintains the correct position, tighten centre bolt to 25Nm&quot;<br /> <br /> (It is quite difficult to hold the allen key on the lever and use a torque wrench in this location. If you tighten this bolt up using the &quot;calibrated hand&quot; method, do not overtighten the bolt. <br /> <br /> 30e. Manual tensioner - lever the edge of the tensioner bracket upwards with a flathead screwdriver until the belt is held tight enough so that you can twist the right-hand side of the belt (in the middle of the longest run) between 70 and 90 degrees) with your fingers. Tighten the M6 securing bolt to 10nm to hold the tensioner in place. Tighten the tensioner centre bolt to 45NM.<br /> <br /> 31. Remove the cam locking tool and the crank locking allen key/scredriver and using a ratchet on the crank bolt, rotate the engine 2 turns clockwise. Check the tensioner pointer is still in the correct position<br /> <br /> 32. Remove the crank bolt, refit the cambelt lower cover. 3 bolts, 10nm<br /> <br /> 33. Ensuring the mating surfaces of the crank pulley, washer, bolt and sprocket are clean, refit the crank pulley, washer and bolt. (Do not use a thread lock compound). Make sure the notch on the pulley is keyed to the crank before tightening the bolt hand tight<br /> <br /> 34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to 205Nm. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series<br /> <br /> 35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver !!!!<br /> <br /> 36. Refit the alternator belt<br /> <br /> 37. Refit the upper cam belt cover (be careful that the rubber sealing gasket on the lower edge is in the correct place. Its easily knocked off)<br /> <br /> 37a. if you loosened the engine mount bolts, tighten them up and torque to 82NM.<br /> <br /> 38. If you have changed the water pump, reconnect all coolant hoses and refill the system with new coolant.<br /> <br /> 39. I always turn the car over on the starter with the spark plugs removed just as a double triple check that all is well. (not advisable on cars with coil packs as they can be damaged. Better to remove the power to the fuel pump) If it doesn't rattle like a bag of nails :-), then refit the spark plugs and leads, start the engine <br /> <br /> 40. Lower the car and bleed the cooling system per the service manual or <br /> <br /> http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Bleed_the_cooling_system<br /> <br /> CHOPPER.<br /> <br /> ===NOTES=== <br /> <br /> 1. Alternative methods used to lock the crank include having the car in gear and an assistant press on the brakes VERY hard. It has worked for some and it appears OK for loosening the crank bolt but when doing up any slipage will throw out the timing !!!<br /> <br /> Another method to undo the crank bolt that has been used is jam the socket and breaker bar against the groung/something very rigid, and use the starter motor to turn the engine. The bolt being held will undo as the crank turns. Use this method at your own risk.... and make sure the car is out of gear when you do it<br /> <br /> Another method to block the crank bolt when you remove/put the pulley :<br /> [[File:manual.jpg|thumb|left]][[File:IMG_0065 (Personnalisé).JPG|thumb]]<br /> <br /> <br /> * Make sure the car is out of gear<br /> <br /> * Unscrew the starter (bolts n°25 &amp; 27) and take off the rear closure plate (n°26).<br /> <br /> * Then you have accesse to the flywheel... Now you need a strong cornered plate that you'll can wedge between the sump and the flywheel. Put it in the red position when you unscrew the pulley (like in the picture), put it in the blue position when you screw back the pulley...<br /> <br /> * Just have to put back the starter and the closure plate when you're done.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 2. There have been a small number if instances reported where the cambelt centre tensioner bolt has become seized to the block through corrosion/overzealous tightening or the use of thread lock. Before stripping the engine to find this may be the case (and you now have a car that is incapable of being driven to a garage/mechanic), you may wish to check the tensioner bolt will loosen. This is possible by removing the upper cam belt cover before all else and trying to move the bolt a quarter turn. If it moves, tighten it back up and follow the normal procedure above<br /> <br /> <br /> Useful video:<br /> http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/index.htm<br /> <br /> Useful link to another guide fitting the manual tensioner<br /> http://www.tadts.com/instructions/engine/100016.html<br /> <br /> Quick Guide<br /> <br /> Thread here: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=314945&amp;page=1#pid5349364<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Tensioner===<br /> <br /> <br /> '''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''<br /> <br /> Auto or Manual<br /> <br /> I looked at the information on Eliseparts to ascertain if our engine was fitted with a manual or auto tensioner.<br /> It sugested auto, i purchased an auto one but it turnd out to be a manual.<br /> be warned, eliseparts will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.<br /> <br /> ===See Also===<br /> <br /> <br /> '''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''<br /> <br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Cambelt&diff=13778 2025-12-21T22:15:27Z

<p>Dr. Evil: updated with manual tensioner info</p> <hr /> <div>'''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION, WORK IN PROGRESS'''<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Part numbers===<br /> <br /> For auto tensioner:<br /> <br /> Rover pt no, LHN100560<br /> <br /> Gates pt no. 5497XS<br /> <br /> Piper pt no TBP33<br /> <br /> <br /> For manual tensioner (143 teeth):<br /> <br /> Rover pt no. LHN100390<br /> <br /> Gates pt no. 5416XS<br /> <br /> Continental CT929 (belt only) / CT929K2 (with manual tensioner)<br /> <br /> Piper pt no. TBP17 wide<br /> <br /> ===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===<br /> <br /> It is much easier to change the cambelt with the rear clam off but this is not necessary and access through the drivers rear wheel arch with the liner removed is still excellent compared to most 16v engines. <br /> <br /> Instructions are for a &quot;clam on&quot; change<br /> <br /> The rear of the car needs to be a high as possible to allow access to loosen and torque up the crank bolt (210Nm is tight)<br /> <br /> ((CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE ))<br /> <br /> ===Tools Required===<br /> <br /> You will require a cut down 22mm socket to fit in the limited space between the crank pulley and the chassis (a 6 sided socket is stronger than a 12sided. Silverline do one for a couple of ££'s from Amazon)<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt2.jpg|thumb|none|Gap]]<br /> [[File:22mm Socket Marked.JPG|thumb|none]]<br /> [[File:Cambelt4.jpg|thumb|none]]<br /> <br /> You will also need a<br /> <br /> . 1/2&quot; breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt. As long as possible (don't try and use a ratchet handle, you'll break it and get a hernia to boot) <br /> <br /> . a torque wrench capable of operating up to 210Nm (with a slim head if possible)<br /> <br /> . A Rover K Series camshaft locking tool<br /> <br /> ===Method===<br /> <br /> 1. Run the rear of the car up on ramps if you have them and remove the rear undertray and diffuser. Loosen the RHS rear wheel nuts while the weight of the car is still on the wheel <br /> <br /> 2. Remove the spark plugs (this will allow the engine to be turned over much easier <br /> using the crank bolt as required below<br /> <br /> 3. Jack up the RHS of car higher still and place axle stands at the B and C positions in the diagram (if you don't have ramps then jack and support with axle stands in stages, as the tilt on the car can easily cause it to slip off a jack on it own)<br /> <br /> [[File:Jacking Positions.JPG|thumb|none]].<br /> <br /> Try and get the car high enough that you can kneel with your head inside the rear wheel arch (when the liner is out) as this is a comfortable working position allowing you to reach into the engine bay through the arch<br /> <br /> 4. Move the ramp out of your way and remove RHS rear wheel<br /> <br /> 5. Remove RHS rear wheel arch liner<br /> <br /> 6. You may wish to remove the brake disc on the RHS rear wheel to allow greater access into the wheel arch when working (it is not necessary to do this)<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt1.jpg|thumb|none|View with Liner Out]]<br /> <br /> 7. Loosen the pivot bolt and clamp bolt on the alternator<br /> <br /> 8. Loosen the adjuster bolt to move the alternator towards the engine and provide slack on the the belt. The bolt has a fine pitch so expect to turn it many times before the belt slackens (If you intend to refit the existing alternator belt, before undoing the adjuster bolt, mark the position of the clamp bolt on the slotted bracket, so that you know exactly where to tighten the belt up to on reassembly)<br /> <br /> [[File:Alternator Diagram.JPG|thumb|none|Alternator bolts]]<br /> <br /> 9. Remove the alternator belt<br /> <br /> 10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and manoeuvre it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit). It can also help to loosen the two RHS engine mount bolts by about a centimeter to lower the engine. This gives more access to remove the upper cambelt cover, and it also gives more room to access the crank bolt.<br /> <br /> Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt3.jpg|thumb|none|Top Cover Removed]]<br /> <br /> 11. Before loosening the crank bolt place a suitably sized screwdriver or allen key in the visible flywheel ring gear next to the drivers side driveshaft to prevent the engine rotating (I found an allen key much less likely to slip)<br /> <br /> [[File:Allen Key Crank Lock.JPG|thumb|none|Crank Locked with Allen Key]]<br /> <br /> 12. From under the car and using the breaker bar with the cut down socket, loosen the crank bolt (you are likely to have to brace your knees/feet against the underside to gain enough purchase to undo the bolt. Folk on here have snapped breaker bars doing this, so take care)<br /> <br /> 13. Remove the crank bolt, the large washer (note orientation) and then the crank pulley<br /> <br /> [[File:Crank Pulley and Bolt.JPG|thumb|none]]<br /> <br /> 14(a). Remove the lower cam cover (3 bolts, 8mm socket/spanner)<br /> <br /> 14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.<br /> <br /> 15(a). Before removing the cambelt the engine requires to be placed in a known positioned with No1 piston (closest to belt end) at 90deg BTDC. As a visual aid to help find 90 BTDC, place a long screwdriver/large tie wrap/clean garden cane etc etc down through hole where you removed the spark plug on cylinder 1. It will rest on the piston crown and rise and fall with the engine rotation as required in part 16 and indicate piston location and direction. ***Make sure that whatever you use is long enough so that it does not fall into the engine at piston BDC !!! ***<br /> <br /> 15(b). Its worth highlighting the camshaft sprocket alignment marks, the crankshaft sprocket alignment marks and the engine block alignment mark with some Tippex (or white paint) for ease of viewing<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt5.jpg|thumb|none|Camshaft Alignment Marks]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt6.jpg|thumb|none|Crankshaft and Block Alignment Marks]] <br /> <br /> 16. Remove the screwdriver/allen key from the flywheel teeth, and with the car out of gear. Turn the engine using a rachet/spanner on the crank bolt (only ever turn clockwise), until the camshaft and crank shaft alignment mark line up as above AND the visual aid in cylinder 1 shows the piston is half way up the cylinder on the rise. Camshaft sprocket marks should face each other in a line with the centre bolts of each shaft. The crank dimple marks should straddle the block mark.<br /> <br /> [[File:K Alignment Marks.JPG|thumb|none|K Series Camshaft Alignment Marks]]<br /> <br /> 17. Replace the screwdriver or allen key in the flywheel and place the camshaft locking tool into place<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt7.jpg|thumb|none|Cam Locking Tool]]<br /> <br /> 18. Mark the old belt/sprockets at both cams and on the crank. When the old belt is off, transfer these marks to the new belt (carefully count the belt teeth). When fitting the new, the marks will ensure it is not out by a tooth anywhere along its length (the K series will run without damage when the belt is out by a tooth either way but not very well!!).<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt8.jpg|thumb|none|Belt to Sprocket Double Check]]<br /> <br /> 19. Unbolt the tensioner centre bolt, remove the tensioner and slide off the cambelt.<br /> <br /> 20. The engine mount prevents the old belt from being removed completely. There are two ways of getting the old belt out and new one in <br /> <br /> 20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):<br /> The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt in between the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque (82NM). <br /> <br /> [[File:Engine Mount.JPG|thumb|none|Engine Mount]]<br /> <br /> 20b The alternative method, is to place a trolley jack under the engine (use a piece of wood between to spread the contact load), jack the engine up slightly and remove the engine mount bolts completely. Takes a bit longer and if the engine moves ever so slightly back or forward it can be a PITA to get the bolts started in the threads again<br /> <br /> ===Waterpump Change===<br /> <br /> 21 If you intend to change the waterpump as well (and if you're in here already its probably worth it !!), now is the time to do it. Drain the coolant by undoing and hoses that enter both side rails at the rear of the car<br /> <br /> 22. Unbolt the old pump and remove it. (Expect more coolant to flow from the engine block). There are 6 bolts circled in the photo. The top left is bolted from the rear side, the bottom right is a pillar bolt (used for the front cover as well) and there are two dowels, squared in the photo. Check that the old rubber sealant ring was removed with the old pump and if there is any corrosion around the face/dowels remove with wet an dry paper. The block surface should be clean to allow the new pump to fit well <br /> <br /> [[File:Waterpump Bolts.JPG|thumb|none|Waterpump Bolts and Dowels]] <br /> <br /> 23. Ensuring the new sealant ring is in place in the groove on the new pump and fit the pump (you can use some (proper) automotive RTV silicon to hold the new sealant ring in place if required). Tighten the bolts in stages alternating between diagonally opposite bolts to 10Nm<br /> <br /> ===Cambelt Continued===<br /> <br /> 24. Before fitting the new tensioner, it is advisable to mark the end of the tensioner wire pointer with a drop of Tippex/white paint to alow it to be seen clearer during positioning<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt10.jpg|thumb|none|New Tensioner on left with Pointer Marked]]<br /> <br /> 25. Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner will wobble quite freely to give some freeplay while fitting the new belt. Ensure that the wire loop on the tensioner is hooked behind the bolt on the block.<br /> <br /> The tensioner lever (the part where the allen key fits, should be at the 9 o'clock position)<br /> <br /> [[File:Auto Tensioner Wire.JPG|thumb|none|Tensioner Wire Hook Position]]<br /> <br /> 25a. Manual Tensioner - Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner can pivot. Fit the smaller retaining bolt loosely in the slot. <br /> <br /> 26. Fit the new belt onto the crank pulley first. If you marked the belt as per section 18 above, line up the mark on the belt with the sprocket mark. Fit the belt so that approx half of the width is on the sprocket/half is hanging off the front edge. Again this gives you more leeway/flex with the belt as you feed it on.<br /> <br /> 27. Keeping the long RHS of the belt taught, feed it over the RHS (exhaust) cam sprocket then over the LHS (inlet) cam sprocket, again lining up the white marks you placed on it earlier and again only pushing the belt on half way<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt12.jpg|thumb|none|New Belt - Aligning Crank Sprocket Mark]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt11.jpg|thumb|none|New Belt - Aligning Cam Sprocket Marks]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 28. Feed the belt up around the water pump then around tensioner. Once around all the mounting points you can then push the belt fully onto all the sprockets until seated fully<br /> <br /> 29. Tighten the tensioner centre bolt, not fully, but enough to pull it against the block<br /> <br /> 30 From the service manual:-<br /> <br /> [[File:Auto Tensioner Setup.JPG|thumb|none|Auto Tensioner Adjustment]]<br /> <br /> 30a. &quot;Tighten the centre bolt until it is just possible to move the tensioner lever&quot;<br /> <br /> 30b. &quot;check the belt is central around gears and pulleys<br /> <br /> 30c. &quot;Using a 6mm Allen Key, rotate tensioner anti-clockwise and align the centre of the indent on the tensioner pointer to the index wire<br /> <br /> ENSURE that the pointer approaches the index wire from above. Should pointer go past index wire, release tension completely and repeat tensioning procedure&quot; <br /> <br /> 30d. &quot;Ensuring that the pointer maintains the correct position, tighten centre bolt to 25Nm&quot;<br /> <br /> (It is quite difficult to hold the allen key on the lever and use a torque wrench in this location. If you tighten this bolt up using the &quot;calibrated hand&quot; method, do not overtighten the bolt. <br /> <br /> 30e. Manual tensioner - lever the edge of the tensioner bracket upwards with a flathead screwdriver until the belt is held tight enough so that you can twist the right-hand side of the belt (in the middle of the longest run) between 70 and 90 degrees) with your fingers. Tighten the M6 securing bolt to 10nm to hold the tensioner in place. Tighten the tensioner centre bolt to 45NM.<br /> <br /> 31. Remove the cam locking tool and the crank locking allen key/scredriver and using a ratchet on the crank bolt, rotate the engine 2 turns clockwise. Check the tensioner pointer is still in the correct position<br /> <br /> 32. Remove the crank bolt, refit the cambelt lower cover. 3 bolts, 10nm<br /> <br /> 33. Ensuring the mating surfaces of the crank pulley, washer, bolt and sprocket are clean, refit the crank pulley, washer and bolt. (Do not use a thread lock compound). Make sure the notch on the pulley is keyed to the crank before tightening the bolt hand tight<br /> <br /> 34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to 205Nm. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series<br /> <br /> 35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver !!!!<br /> <br /> 36. Refit the alternator belt<br /> <br /> 37. Refit the upper cam belt cover (be careful that the rubber sealing gasket on the lower edge is in the correct place. Its easily knocked off)<br /> <br /> 37a. if you loosened the engine mount bolts, tighten them up and torque to 82NM.<br /> <br /> 38. If you have changed the water pump, reconnect all coolant hoses and refill the system with new coolant.<br /> <br /> 39. I always turn the car over on the starter with the spark plugs removed just as a double triple check that all is well. (not advisable on cars with coil packs as they can be damaged. Better to remove the power to the fuel pump) If it doesn't rattle like a bag of nails :-), then refit the spark plugs and leads, start the engine <br /> <br /> 40. Lower the car and bleed the cooling system per the service manual or <br /> <br /> http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Bleed_the_cooling_system<br /> <br /> CHOPPER.<br /> <br /> ===NOTES=== <br /> <br /> 1. Alternative methods used to lock the crank include having the car in gear and an assistant press on the brakes VERY hard. It has worked for some and it appears OK for loosening the crank bolt but when doing up any slipage will throw out the timing !!!<br /> <br /> Another method to undo the crank bolt that has been used is jam the socket and breaker bar against the groung/something very rigid, and use the starter motor to turn the engine. The bolt being held will undo as the crank turns. Use this method at your own risk.... and make sure the car is out of gear when you do it<br /> <br /> Another method to block the crank bolt when you remove/put the pulley :<br /> [[File:manual.jpg|thumb|left]][[File:IMG_0065 (Personnalisé).JPG|thumb]]<br /> <br /> <br /> * Make sure the car is out of gear<br /> <br /> * Unscrew the starter (bolts n°25 &amp; 27) and take off the rear closure plate (n°26).<br /> <br /> * Then you have accesse to the flywheel... Now you need a strong cornered plate that you'll can wedge between the sump and the flywheel. Put it in the red position when you unscrew the pulley (like in the picture), put it in the blue position when you screw back the pulley...<br /> <br /> * Just have to put back the starter and the closure plate when you're done.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 2. There have been a small number if instances reported where the cambelt centre tensioner bolt has become seized to the block through corrosion/overzealous tightening or the use of thread lock. Before stripping the engine to find this may be the case (and you now have a car that is incapable of being driven to a garage/mechanic), you may wish to check the tensioner bolt will loosen. This is possible by removing the upper cam belt cover before all else and trying to move the bolt a quarter turn. If it moves, tighten it back up and follow the normal procedure above<br /> <br /> <br /> Useful video:<br /> http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/index.htm<br /> <br /> Useful link to another guide fitting the manual tensioner<br /> http://www.tadts.com/instructions/engine/100016.html<br /> <br /> Quick Guide<br /> <br /> Thread here: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=314945&amp;page=1#pid5349364<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Tensioner===<br /> <br /> <br /> '''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''<br /> <br /> Auto or Manual<br /> <br /> I looked at the information on Eliseparts to ascertain if our engine was fitted with a manual or auto tensioner.<br /> It sugested auto, i purchased an auto one but it turnd out to be a manual.<br /> be warned, eliseparts will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.<br /> <br /> ===See Also===<br /> <br /> <br /> '''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''<br /> <br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Cambelt&diff=13750 2025-10-25T15:28:46Z

<p>Dr. Evil: /* Part numbers */</p> <hr /> <div>'''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION, WORK IN PROGRESS'''<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Part numbers===<br /> <br /> For auto tensioner:<br /> <br /> Rover pt no, LHN100560<br /> <br /> Gates pt no. 5497XS<br /> <br /> Piper pt no TBP33<br /> <br /> <br /> For manual tensioner (143 teeth):<br /> <br /> Rover pt no. LHN100390<br /> <br /> Gates pt no. 5416XS<br /> <br /> Continental CT929 (belt only) / CT929K2 (with manual tensioner)<br /> <br /> Piper pt no. TBP17 wide<br /> <br /> ===Changing the Cambelt (Auto Tensioner inc Water Pump)===<br /> <br /> It is much easier to change the cambelt with the rear clam off but this is not necessary and access through the drivers rear wheel arch with the liner removed is still excellent compared to most 16v engines. <br /> <br /> Instructions are for a &quot;clam on&quot; change<br /> <br /> The rear of the car needs to be a high as possible to allow access to loosen and torque up the crank bolt (210Nm is tight)<br /> <br /> ((CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE ))<br /> <br /> ===Tools Required===<br /> <br /> You will require a cut down 22mm socket to fit in the limited space between the crank pulley and the chassis (a 6 sided socket is stronger than a 12sided. Silverline do one for a couple of ££'s from Amazon)<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt2.jpg|thumb|none|Gap]]<br /> [[File:22mm Socket Marked.JPG|thumb|none]]<br /> [[File:Cambelt4.jpg|thumb|none]]<br /> <br /> You will also need a<br /> <br /> . 1/2&quot; breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt. As long as possible (don't try and use a ratchet handle, you'll break it and get a hernia to boot) <br /> <br /> . a torque wrench capable of operating up to 210Nm (with a slim head if possible)<br /> <br /> . A Rover K Series camshaft locking tool<br /> <br /> ===Method===<br /> <br /> 1. Run the rear of the car up on ramps if you have them and remove the rear undertray and diffuser. Loosen the RHS rear wheel nuts while the weight of the car is still on the wheel <br /> <br /> 2. Remove the spark plugs (this will allow the engine to be turned over much easier <br /> using the crank bolt as required below<br /> <br /> 3. Jack up the RHS of car higher still and place axle stands at the B and C positions in the diagram (if you don't have ramps then jack and support with axle stands in stages, as the tilt on the car can easily cause it to slip off a jack on it own)<br /> <br /> [[File:Jacking Positions.JPG|thumb|none]].<br /> <br /> Try and get the car high enough that you can kneel with your head inside the rear wheel arch (when the liner is out) as this is a comfortable working position allowing you to reach into the engine bay through the arch<br /> <br /> 4. Move the ramp out of your way and remove RHS rear wheel<br /> <br /> 5. Remove RHS rear wheel arch liner<br /> <br /> 6. You may wish to remove the brake disc on the RHS rear wheel to allow greater access into the wheel arch when working (it is not necessary to do this)<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt1.jpg|thumb|none|View with Liner Out]]<br /> <br /> 7. Loosen the pivot bolt and clamp bolt on the alternator<br /> <br /> 8. Loosen the adjuster bolt to move the alternator towards the engine and provide slack on the the belt. The bolt has a fine pitch so expect to turn it many times before the belt slackens (If you intend to refit the existing alternator belt, before undoing the adjuster bolt, mark the position of the clamp bolt on the slotted bracket, so that you know exactly where to tighten the belt up to on reassembly)<br /> <br /> [[File:Alternator Diagram.JPG|thumb|none|Alternator bolts]]<br /> <br /> 9. Remove the alternator belt<br /> <br /> 10. Unbolt the upper cam belt cover and manoeuvre it upwards and out via the the engine bay (the cover to clam clearance is tight, but it will come out with minimum force if jiggled about a bit)<br /> <br /> Ensure that you do not lose the rubber seal that press fits onto the bottom edge of the upper cover<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt3.jpg|thumb|none|Top Cover Removed]]<br /> <br /> 11. Before loosening the crank bolt place a suitably sized screwdriver or allen key in the visible flywheel ring gear next to the drivers side driveshaft to prevent the engine rotating (I found an allen key much less likely to slip)<br /> <br /> [[File:Allen Key Crank Lock.JPG|thumb|none|Crank Locked with Allen Key]]<br /> <br /> 12. From under the car and using the breaker bar with the cut down socket, loosen the crank bolt (you are likely to have to brace your knees/feet against the underside to gain enough purchase to undo the bolt. Folk on here have snapped breaker bars doing this, so take care)<br /> <br /> 13. Remove the crank bolt, the large washer (note orientation) and then the crank pulley<br /> <br /> [[File:Crank Pulley and Bolt.JPG|thumb|none]]<br /> <br /> 14(a). Remove the lower cam cover<br /> <br /> 14(b). Replace the crank bolt (only) and hand tighten.<br /> <br /> 15(a). Before removing the cambelt the engine requires to be placed in a known positioned with No1 piston (closest to belt end) at 90deg BTDC. As a visual aid to help find 90 BTDC, place a long screwdriver/large tie wrap/clean garden cane etc etc down through hole where you removed the spark plug on cylinder 1. It will rest on the piston crown and rise and fall with the engine rotation as required in part 16 and indicate piston location and direction. ***Make sure that whatever you use is long enough so that it does not fall into the engine at piston BDC !!! ***<br /> <br /> 15(b). Its worth highlighting the camshaft sprocket alignment marks, the crankshaft sprocket alignment marks and the engine block alignment mark with some Tippex (or white paint) for ease of viewing<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt5.jpg|thumb|none|Camshaft Alignment Marks]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt6.jpg|thumb|none|Crankshaft and Block Alignment Marks]] <br /> <br /> 16. Remove the screwdriver/allen key from the flywheel teeth, and with the car out of gear. Turn the engine using a rachet/spanner on the crank bolt (only ever turn clockwise), until the camshaft and crank shaft alignment mark line up as above AND the visual aid in cylinder 1 shows the piston is half way up the cylinder on the rise. Camshaft sprocket marks should face each other in a line with the centre bolts of each shaft. The crank dimple marks should straddle the block mark.<br /> <br /> [[File:K Alignment Marks.JPG|thumb|none|K Series Camshaft Alignment Marks]]<br /> <br /> 17. Replace the screwdriver or allen key in the flywheel and place the camshaft locking tool into place<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt7.jpg|thumb|none|Cam Locking Tool]]<br /> <br /> 18. Mark the old belt/sprockets at both cams and on the crank. When the old belt is off, transfer these marks to the new belt (carefully count the belt teeth). When fitting the new, the marks will ensure it is not out by a tooth anywhere along its length (the K series will run without damage when the belt is out by a tooth either way but not very well!!).<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt8.jpg|thumb|none|Belt to Sprocket Double Check]]<br /> <br /> 19. Unbolt the tensioner centre bolt, remove the tensioner and slide off the cambelt.<br /> <br /> 20. The engine mount prevents the old belt from being removed completely. There are two ways of getting the old belt out and new one in <br /> <br /> 20a (Thanks to Dave Andrews for this tip):<br /> The easiest method is to remove one bolt on the engine mount at a time and weave the belt in between the bolts. Slacken both so that the engine drops by 12-15mm or so. Remove one bolt and push the belt into the gap between. Replace the bolt and tighten to where it was (I.E. 12mm gap), then remove the other bolt and push the belt the rest of the way through the gap. Reverse the process to get the new belt in, then do up both bolts to the correct torque. <br /> <br /> [[File:Engine Mount.JPG|thumb|none|Engine Mount]]<br /> <br /> 20b The alternative method, is to place a trolley jack under the engine (use a piece of wood between to spread the contact load), jack the engine up slightly and remove the engine mount bolts completely. Takes a bit longer and if the engine moves ever so slightly back or forward it can be a PITA to get the bolts started in the threads again<br /> <br /> ===Waterpump Change===<br /> <br /> 21 If you intend to change the waterpump as well (and if you're in here already its probably worth it !!), now is the time to do it. Drain the coolant by undoing and hoses that enter both side rails at the rear of the car<br /> <br /> 22. Unbolt the old pump and remove it. (Expect more coolant to flow from the engine block). There are 6 bolts circled in the photo. The top left is bolted from the rear side, the bottom right is a pillar bolt (used for the front cover as well) and there are two dowels, squared in the photo. Check that the old rubber sealant ring was removed with the old pump and if there is any corrosion around the face/dowels remove with wet an dry paper. The block surface should be clean to allow the new pump to fit well <br /> <br /> [[File:Waterpump Bolts.JPG|thumb|none|Waterpump Bolts and Dowels]] <br /> <br /> 23. Ensuring the new sealant ring is in place in the groove on the new pump and fit the pump (you can use some (proper) automotive RTV silicon to hold the new sealant ring in place if required). Tighten the bolts in stages alternating between diagonally opposite bolts to 10Nm<br /> <br /> ===Cambelt Continued===<br /> <br /> 24. Before fitting the new tensioner, it is advisable to mark the end of the tensioner wire pointer with a drop of Tippex/white paint to alow it to be seen clearer during positioning<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt10.jpg|thumb|none|New Tensioner on left with Pointer Marked]]<br /> <br /> 25. Fit the new tensioner into position and secure with the centre bolt but leave it loose enough that the tensioner will wobble quite freely to give some freeplay while fitting the new belt. Ensure that the wire loop on the tensioner is hooked behind the bolt on the block.<br /> <br /> The tensioner lever (the part where the allen key fits, should be at the 9 o'clock position)<br /> <br /> [[File:Auto Tensioner Wire.JPG|thumb|none|Tensioner Wire Hook Position]]<br /> <br /> 26. Fit the new belt onto the crank pulley first. If you marked the belt as per section 18 above, line up the mark on the belt with the sprocket mark. Fit the belt so that approx half of the width is on the sprocket/half is hanging off the front edge. Again this gives you more leeway/flex with the belt as you feed it on.<br /> <br /> 27. Keeping the long RHS of the belt taught, feed it over the RHS (exhaust) cam sprocket then over the LHS (inlet) cam sprocket, again lining up the white marks you placed on it earlier and again only pushing the belt on half way<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt12.jpg|thumb|none|New Belt - Aligning Crank Sprocket Mark]]<br /> <br /> [[File:Cambelt11.jpg|thumb|none|New Belt - Aligning Cam Sprocket Marks]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 28. Feed the belt up around the water pump then around tensioner. Once around all the mounting points you can then push the belt fully onto all the sprockets until seated fully<br /> <br /> 29. Tighten the tensioner centre bolt, not fully, but enough to pull it against the block<br /> <br /> 30 From the service manual:-<br /> <br /> [[File:Auto Tensioner Setup.JPG|thumb|none|Auto Tensioner Adjustment]]<br /> <br /> 30a. &quot;Tighten the centre bolt until it is just posible to move the tensioner lever&quot;<br /> <br /> 30b. &quot;check the belt is central around gears and pulleys<br /> <br /> 30c. &quot;Using a 6mm Allen Key, rotate tensioner anti-clockwise and align the centre of the indent on the tensioner pointer to the index wire<br /> <br /> ENSURE that the pointer approaches the index wire from above. Should pointer go past index wire, release tension completely and repeat tensioning procedure&quot; <br /> <br /> 30d. &quot;Ensuring that the pointer maintains the correct position, tighten centre bolt to 25Nm&quot;<br /> <br /> (It is quite difficult to hold the allen key on the lever and use a torque wrench in this location. If you tighten this bolt up using the &quot;calibrated hand&quot; method, do not overtighten the bolt. <br /> <br /> 31. Remove the cam locking tool and the crank locking allen key/scredriver and using a ratchet on the crank bolt, rotate the engine 2 turns clockwise. Check the tensioner pointer is still in the correct position<br /> <br /> 32. Remove the crank bolt, refit the cambelt lower cover.<br /> <br /> 33. Ensuring the mating surfaces of the crank pulley, washer, bolt and sprocket are clean, refit the crank pulley, washer and bolt. (Do not use a thread lock compound). Make sure the notch on the pulley is keyed to the crank before tightening the bolt hand tight<br /> <br /> 34. Replace the crank locking allen key/screwdriver and torque the crank pulley to 210Nm. This is a significant force even with a long torque wrench. Do not be tempted to just beef up the bolt with a big spanner, numerous instances of the the crank nose being worn away, the pulley undoing and the crank sprocket sliding off because of a loose bolt have been documented with the K series<br /> <br /> 35. Remember to remove the crank locking allen key/screwdriver !!!!<br /> <br /> 36. Refit the alternator belt<br /> <br /> 37. Refit the upper cam belt cover (be careful that the rubber sealing gasket on the lower edge is in the correct place. Its easily knocked off)<br /> <br /> 38. If you have changed the water pump, reconnect all coolant hoses and refill the system with new coolant.<br /> <br /> 39. I always turn the car over on the starter with the spark plugs removed just as a double triple check that all is well. (not advisable on cars with coil packs as they can be damaged. Better to remove the power to the fuel pump) If it doesn't rattle like a bag of nails :-), then refit the spark plugs and leads, start the engine <br /> <br /> 40. Lower the car and bleed the cooling system per the service manual or <br /> <br /> http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Bleed_the_cooling_system<br /> <br /> CHOPPER.<br /> <br /> ===NOTES=== <br /> <br /> 1. Alternative methods used to lock the crank include having the car in gear and an assistant press on the brakes VERY hard. It has worked for some and it appears OK for loosening the crank bolt but when doing up any slipage will throw out the timing !!!<br /> <br /> Another method to undo the crank bolt that has been used is jam the socket and breaker bar against the groung/something very rigid, and use the starter motor to turn the engine. The bolt being held will undo as the crank turns. Use this method at your own risk.... and make sure the car is out of gear when you do it<br /> <br /> Another method to block the crank bolt when you remove/put the pulley :<br /> [[File:manual.jpg|thumb|left]][[File:IMG_0065 (Personnalisé).JPG|thumb]]<br /> <br /> <br /> * Make sure the car is out of gear<br /> <br /> * Unscrew the starter (bolts n°25 &amp; 27) and take off the rear closure plate (n°26).<br /> <br /> * Then you have accesse to the flywheel... Now you need a strong cornered plate that you'll can wedge between the sump and the flywheel. Put it in the red position when you unscrew the pulley (like in the picture), put it in the blue position when you screw back the pulley...<br /> <br /> * Just have to put back the starter and the closure plate when you're done.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> 2. There have been a small number if instances reported where the cambelt centre tensioner bolt has become seized to the block through corrosion/overzealous tightening or the use of thread lock. Before stripping the engine to find this may be the case (and you now have a car that is incapable of being driven to a garage/mechanic), you may wish to check the tensioner bolt will loosen. This is possible by removing the upper cam belt cover before all else and trying to move the bolt a quarter turn. If it moves, tighten it back up and follow the normal procedure above<br /> <br /> <br /> Useful video:<br /> http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/index.htm<br /> <br /> Useful link to another guide fitting the manual tensioner<br /> http://www.tadts.com/instructions/engine/100016.html<br /> <br /> Quick Guide<br /> <br /> Thread here: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=314945&amp;page=1#pid5349364<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Tensioner===<br /> <br /> <br /> '''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''<br /> <br /> Auto or Manual<br /> <br /> I looked at the information on Eliseparts to ascertain if our engine was fitted with a manual or auto tensioner.<br /> It sugested auto, i purchased an auto one but it turnd out to be a manual.<br /> be warned, eliseparts will not allow you to return the miss purchased item and they stipulate this on line.<br /> <br /> ===See Also===<br /> <br /> <br /> '''PLEASE ADD INFORMATION'''<br /> <br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Adjust_Headlights_S1&diff=12561 2018-05-06T07:14:32Z

<p>Dr. Evil: </p> <hr /> <div>The factory declination angle of the S1 headlights is 1.5%. So for every meter forward projection, the beam should drop by 1.5 cm. The MOT test equipment calculates the drop over 10 meters which should be 15cm<br /> <br /> To check the alignment<br /> <br /> #Set tyre pressures correctly.<br /> #Park the car on a very level surface 5m away from a vertical wall. Ballast the driver’s seat with 75KG passenger to get accurate readings but I don’t think this is strictly necessary.<br /> #Turn on the headlights in low beam. You should see a pattern like ___/___/ for LHD or \___\___ for RHD projected against the wall.<br /> #Measure the height of the beam in front of each headlight with a tape measure so that the brightest part of the beam focuses on about a 1cm strip of the tape measure. Note the height where the brightest part ends. This is the reference height for the beam. The beam should be angled downwards from this height to avoid dazzling oncoming drivers.<br /> #Cover one light with a shop cloth so that the other headlight clearly projects a beam against the wall.<br /> #Measure the height of the beam against the wall where the horizontal line is projected, just where the beam starts angle upwards. It is useful to mark this spot with a piece of tape for reference.<br /> #If the wall is 5m from the headlamp, the beam horizontal line projected on the wall should be 7.5 cm below the reference beam height. It is useful to mark the target height with a piece of tape for reference. <br /> #You can adjust the height of the beam to hit the target height by removing the radiator shroud and reaching underneath the headlamp to turn the butterfly nut clockwise to raise the beam or counterclockwise to dip the beam.<br /> #Repeat steps 5-8 for the other headlight.<br /> <br /> The beams should also be projected parallel with the centerline of the car. To check<br /> #Measure the distance between the centerlines of the headlights<br /> #The centerline of each beam projection is the corner where each beam starts to angle up at 15º.<br /> #With headlights projected on the wall, measure the distance of the centerlines against the wall. This distance should the same as the distance between the centerlines of the headlights, and the centerlines should be equidistant from the centerline of the car.<br /> #Adjust by turning the butterfly nuts on the side of the headlamp brackets.<br /> <br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:DIY]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Change_camshaft&diff=12425 2018-02-20T21:53:45Z

<p>Dr. Evil: /* Camshaft replacement */</p> <hr /> <div><br /> This method is for changing the camshafts without replacing the cambelt. It is possible to just loosen the cambelt tensioner to slide the belt off the camshaft pulleys without loosening the crankshaft bolt. With a few additions to this procedure, you could also replace the cambelt, tensioner and waterpump but these extra steps are left out.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Special tools ==<br /> <br /> * Low range torque wrench (10NM for cam carrier, cover etc)<br /> * High range torque wrench (65NM for pulley bolts etc)<br /> * 22mm offset ring spanner or cut-down 22mm socket to turn crankshaft<br /> <br /> <br /> == Parts List ==<br /> <br /> * Camshafts (I used MGTF 135 camshafts)<br /> * 2 x LUC100220 red/brown rear camshaft seals<br /> * 2 x LUC100290 black front camshaft seals<br /> * NJJ10001L or NJJ10001 – drive spindle if your camshaft doesn't have one<br /> * Camcover gasket<br /> * Rover K16 CAMLOCKING tool<br /> * Loctite 574 or OEM Rover liquid gasket LVV000108EVA (or another anaerobic sealant *not* silicone, hylomar or wellseal).<br /> * Cellulose thinners or acetone/nail polish remover<br /> <br /> <br /> == Optional ==<br /> <br /> * Pair of vernier pulleys<br /> <br /> <br /> == Preparation ==<br /> <br /> <br /> # Remove the diffuser and undertray<br /> # Loosen rear wheel nuts<br /> # Jack up the car and put the rear on axle stands underneath the engine subframe – jacking points D.<br /> # Remove RHS rear wheel<br /> # Remove RHS rear arch<br /> # Remove engine cover<br /> # Disconnect battery (important to avoid any risk that the starter is engaged while this work is being carried out)<br /> <br /> <br /> == Camshaft replacement ==<br /> <br /> # Remove spark plug cover, spark plugs and camshaft cover.<br /> # Remove upper outer timing belt cover; it is held in with 5 M6 bolts, + 1 hidden behind the oil dipstick tube<br /> # Turn crank clockwise with 22 mm offset ring spanner or cut-down socket to align engine to 90 BTDC so that the cam pulley marks line up. Insert camshaft locking tool to hold the pulleys. (At BTDC, the crankshaft is ‘flat’, 90 from vertical, and all pistons are at the middle of their stroke. In this position, there is no risk of piston contact with the valves, and the camshafts can be turned freely). Lock the flywheel with a large screwdriver or allen key slotted into the hole in the gearbox just in front of the RH drive-shaft.<br /> # With the cam locking tool holding the pulleys, loosen both 17mm bolts holding the pulleys onto the cams. Make sure both bolts are loose before removing a pulley or belt otherwise you won’t be able to loosen the other pulley.<br /> # Loosen cambelt tensioner, slide the top of the belt off the pulleys. <br /> # Remove the pulleys; rock them back and forth and they should come loose.<br /> # Loosen cam carrier bolts in order shown in service manual. Remove all the carrier bolts. Lift carrier off the head while holding the camshafts against the head so they don’t fall out of the carrier when you are lifting the carrier. <br /> # Remove old camshafts; <br /> # Clean off old sealant from cam ladder and head with cellulose thinners or acetone; make sure top-end is meticulously clean.<br /> # Remove the followers with a magnet and inspect/planish to remove all visible wear marks. Use wet/dry 180 with WD40, then finish with wet/dry 240 against a glass plate or other flat surface. <br /> # If fitting symmetrical camshafts (eg MGTF135 or VVC EX), choose and mark one camshaft as intake and one as exhaust.<br /> # Fit the new dizzy drive spindle part NJJ10001L in the end of the new intake camshaft, using the same angle as the original camshaft as a guide (mine was about 14° from vertical). It helps to put the new spindle in the freezer before trying to fit it. Once it is snug on at the correct angle, tap it in against a wood block until fully seated. <br /> # If fitting vernier pulleys, choose and mark one pulley as intake and one as exhaust. Carefully match new intake vernier to original intake pulley, mark 90 BTDC point. Repeat with exhaust pulleys. <br /> # Fit new cams with new oil seals at each end; red seals go to the back of the engine, black seals towards the front (behind the pulleys). The cams should be more or less positioned so that the cam lobes on cylinder one point in a downwards v-shape towards each other.<br /> # Put Loctite 574 or Rover Part # LVV000108EVA onto the clean cam carrier; Make a thin line, then smear wide and thin with your finger. You have 20 minutes to install and torque the ladder into place before the gasket material sets.<br /> # Progressively tighten the carrier bolts in order and torque as per manual to 10NM. As you tighten down the cam carrier the last 1-2mm onto the head, check again that the seals are square in their bores.<br /> # With the crankshaft still blocked at 90 BTDC, fit pulleys and rotate the camshafts to match the 90 BTDC marks and refit cam locking tool. Torque pulley bolts to camshafts to 65 NM<br /> # Fit cambelt over camshaft pulleys. Pull the belt up tight on the exhaust side, around the exhaust pulley, about half width. Remove the pulley locking tool and turn the intake pulley ½ a tooth clockwise and feed the belt onto the intake pulley, about half width. Feed the belt over the tensioner, if it doesn’t fit, turn the intake counter-clockwise a few degrees to pull the slack over to the tensioner. Re-check that the pulley marks are aligned. Adjust cambelt tensioner to correct tension mark. The manual tensioner adjuster nut should be tightened to 10nm and the main M8 hex bolt in the pulley to 45nm. <br /> # Remove pulley lock and remove flywheel locks. Turn crankshaft two full revolutions clockwise back to 90 BTDC. There should be no ‘clicks’ or fouling of the valves on the pistons. Recheck that the pistons are at the same height, and that the timing marks line up on the pulleys. If there is a problem or doubt, ensure that the engine is at BTDC by rechecking piston heights are equal; then carefully check that the belt is properly fitted and that the pulleys are in the correct positions. On the non-firing strong at TDC, the camshaft lobes nearest the pulleys should be pointing in a downwards v-shaped towards each other; the intake is just about to open and the exhaust is just closing.<br /> # If you are going to time the camshafts; now is a good time to do it; see DVA Power excellent guide or the MGTF forum instructions.<br /> # Refit sparkplugs, distributor rotor and cap, cam cover with gasket, cambelt cover, wheel arch, reverse preparation steps.<br /> <br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:DIY]]<br /> [[Category:Engine]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Change_camshaft&diff=12423 2018-02-17T14:03:12Z

<p>Dr. Evil: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> This method is for changing the camshafts without replacing the cambelt. It is possible to just loosen the cambelt tensioner to slide the belt off the camshaft pulleys without loosening the crankshaft bolt. With a few additions to this procedure, you could also replace the cambelt, tensioner and waterpump but these extra steps are left out.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Special tools ==<br /> <br /> * Low range torque wrench (10NM for cam carrier, cover etc)<br /> * High range torque wrench (65NM for pulley bolts etc)<br /> * 22mm offset ring spanner or cut-down 22mm socket to turn crankshaft<br /> <br /> <br /> == Parts List ==<br /> <br /> * Camshafts (I used MGTF 135 camshafts)<br /> * 2 x LUC100220 red/brown rear camshaft seals<br /> * 2 x LUC100290 black front camshaft seals<br /> * NJJ10001L or NJJ10001 – drive spindle if your camshaft doesn't have one<br /> * Camcover gasket<br /> * Rover K16 CAMLOCKING tool<br /> * Loctite 574 or OEM Rover liquid gasket LVV000108EVA (or another anaerobic sealant *not* silicone, hylomar or wellseal).<br /> * Cellulose thinners or acetone/nail polish remover<br /> <br /> <br /> == Optional ==<br /> <br /> * Pair of vernier pulleys<br /> <br /> <br /> == Preparation ==<br /> <br /> <br /> # Remove the diffuser and undertray<br /> # Loosen rear wheel nuts<br /> # Jack up the car and put the rear on axle stands underneath the engine subframe – jacking points D.<br /> # Remove RHS rear wheel<br /> # Remove RHS rear arch<br /> # Remove engine cover<br /> # Disconnect battery (important to avoid any risk that the starter is engaged while this work is being carried out)<br /> <br /> <br /> == Camshaft replacement ==<br /> <br /> # Remove spark plug cover, spark plugs and camshaft cover.<br /> # Remove upper outer timing belt cover; it is held in with 5 M6 bolts, + 1 hidden behind the oil dipstick tube<br /> # Turn crank clockwise with 22 mm offset ring spanner or cut-down socket to align engine to 90 BTDC so that the cam pulley marks line up. Insert camshaft locking tool to hold the pulleys. (At BTDC, the crankshaft is ‘flat’, 90 from vertical, and all pistons are at the middle of their stroke. In this position, there is no risk of piston contact with the valves, and the camshafts can be turned freely). Lock the flywheel with a large screwdriver or allen key slotted into the hole in the gearbox just in front of the RH drive-shaft.<br /> # With the cam locking tool holding the pulleys, loosen both 17mm bolts holding the pulleys onto the cams. Make sure both bolts are loose before removing a pulley or belt otherwise you won’t be able to loosen the other pulley.<br /> # Loosen cambelt tensioner, slide the top of the belt off the pulleys. <br /> # Remove the pulleys; rock them back and forth and they should come loose.<br /> # Loosen cam carrier bolts in order shown in service manual. Remove all the carrier bolts. Lift carrier off the head while holding the camshafts against the head so they don’t fall out of the carrier when you are lifting the carrier. <br /> # Remove old camshafts; <br /> # Clean off old sealant from cam ladder and head with cellulose thinners or acetone; make sure top-end is meticulously clean.<br /> # Remove the followers with a magnet and inspect/planish to remove all visible wear marks. Use wet/dry 180, then finish with wet/dry 240 against a glass plate or other flat surface. <br /> # If fitting symmetrical camshafts (eg MGTF135 or VVC EX), choose and mark one camshaft as intake and one as exhaust.<br /> # Fit the new dizzy drive spindle part NJJ10001L in the end of the new intake camshaft, using the same angle as the original camshaft as a guide (mine was about 14° from vertical). It helps to put the new spindle in the freezer before trying to fit it. Once it is loosely on at the correct angle, tap it in against a wood block until fully seated. <br /> # If fitting vernier pulleys, choose and mark one pulley as intake and one as exhaust. Carefully match new intake vernier to original intake pulley, mark 90 BTDC point. Repeat with exhaust pulleys. <br /> # Fit new cams with new oil seals at each end; red seals go to the back of the engine, black seals towards the front (behind the pulleys). The cams should be more or less positioned so that the cam lobes on cylinder one point in a downwards v-shape towards each other.<br /> # Put Loctite 574 or Rover Part # LVV000108EVA onto the clean cam carrier; Make a thin line, then smear wide and thin with your finger. You have 20 minutes to install and torque the ladder into place before the gasket material sets.<br /> # Progressively tighten the carrier bolts in order and torque as per manual to 10NM. As you tighten down the cam carrier the last 1-2mm onto the head, check again that the seals are square in their bores.<br /> # With the crankshaft still blocked at 90 BTDC, fit pulleys and rotate the camshafts to match the 90 BTDC marks and refit cam locking tool. Torque pulley bolts to camshafts to 65 NM<br /> # Fit cambelt over camshaft pulleys. Pull the belt up tight on the exhaust side, around the exhaust pulley, about half width. Remove the pulley locking tool and turn the intake pulley ½ a tooth clockwise and feed the belt onto the intake pulley, about half width. Feed the belt over the tensioner, if it doesn’t fit, turn the intake counter-clockwise a few degrees to pull the slack over to the tensioner. Re-check that the pulley marks are aligned. Adjust cambelt tensioner to correct tension mark. The manual tensioner adjuster nut should be tightened to 10nm and the main M8 hex bolt in the pulley to 45nm. <br /> # Remove pulley lock and remove flywheel locks. Turn crankshaft two full revolution clockwise back to 90 BTDC. There should be no ‘clicks’ or fouling of the valves on the pistons. Recheck that the pistons are at the same height, and that the timing marks line up on the pulleys. If there is a problem or doubt, ensure that the engine is at BTDC by rechecking piston heights are equal; then carefully check that the belt is properly fitted and that the pulleys are in the correct positions. On the non-firing strong at TDC, the camshaft lobes nearest the pulleys should be pointing in a downwards v-shaped towards each other; the intake is just about to open and the exhaust is just closing.<br /> # If you are going to time the camshafts; now is a good time to do it; see DVA Power excellent guide or the MGTF forum instructions.<br /> # Refit sparkplugs, distributor rotor and cap, cam cover with gasket, cambelt cover, wheel arch, reverse preparation steps.<br /> <br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:DIY]]<br /> [[Category:Engine]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Adjust_Headlights_S1&diff=12422 2018-02-17T14:01:12Z

<p>Dr. Evil: </p> <hr /> <div>The factory declination angle of the S1 headlights is 1.5º degrees. However, because the headlights are quit low to the ground, this angle doesn’t provide much forward illumination, so an angle of 1.1-1.2º is preferable for daily driving, but may be marginal for an MOT/CT pass.<br /> <br /> To check the alignment<br /> <br /> #Set tyre pressures correctly.<br /> #Park the car on a very level surface 5m away from a vertical wall. Ballast the driver’s seat with 75KG passenger to get accurate readings but I don’t think this is strictly necessary.<br /> #Turn on the headlights in low beam. You should see a pattern like ___/___/ for LHD or \___\___ for RHD projected against the wall.<br /> #Put a tape measure just in front of each headlight so that the brightest part of the beam focuses on about a 1cm strip of the tape measure. Note the height where the brightest part ends. This is the reference height for the beam. The beam should be angled downwards from this height to avoid dazzling oncoming drivers.<br /> #Cover one light with a shop cloth so that the other headlight clearly projects a beam against the wall.<br /> #Measure the height of the beam against the wall where the horizontal line is projected, just where the beam starts angle upwards. This is the reference height. It is useful to mark this spot with a piece of tape for reference.<br /> #If the wall is 5m from the headlamp, the beam horizontal line projected on the wall should be 12 cm below the reference beam height for 1.5º or 10cm for 1.2º dip angle. It is useful to mark the target height with a piece of tape for reference. If the distance from the headlights to the wall is not exactly 5m, use the TAN function on a calculator to determine the correct drop.<br /> #You can adjust the height of the beam to hit the target height by removing the radiator shroud and reaching underneath the headlamp to turn the butterfly nut clockwise to raise the beam or counterclockwise to dip the beam.<br /> #Repeat steps 5-8 for the other headlight.<br /> <br /> The beams should also be projected parallel with the centerline of the car. To check<br /> #Measure the distance between the centerlines of the headlights<br /> #The centerline of each beam projection is the corner where each beam starts to angle up at 15º.<br /> #With headlights projected on the wall, measure the distance of the centerlines against the wall. This distance should the same as the distance between the centerlines of the headlights, and the centerlines should be equidistant from the centerline of the car.<br /> #Adjust by turning the butterfly nuts on the side of the headlamp brackets.<br /> <br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:DIY]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Replace_Headlight_S1&diff=12421 2018-02-17T13:47:29Z

<p>Dr. Evil: </p> <hr /> <div>Replacing headlights is quite easy to do.<br /> <br /> First mark out a stop line in front of a flat wall. Switch on the lights and mark the pattern on the wall. Each light should turn up on the left hand side (for a UK car), mark this 'corner' so that you can position the light and the correct level and pointing correctly left/right.<br /> <br /> I jacked each side up and did each headlight separately, it would be quicker to raise the front and take both wheels off.<br /> <br /> Remove the rubber grommits holding the front of the wheel arch.<br /> Pin back the wheel arch to give you room to work (a 2 foot stick is ideal). Note there is no need to remove the fuse boxes/ tyre weld bolted too them.<br /> <br /> [[Image:WheelArchHoldBack.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> Unplug the electrics from the back of the headlight and remove the bulb and sidelight tail.<br /> The headlight is in a metal surround. The surround is attached to the car by three bolts and three spring loaded plastic wingnuts. The bottom one will probably be rusted so spray with WD40 to free things up.<br /> Carefully remove the wingnuts taking care to ensure you make sure the spring doesn't disappear.<br /> <br /> There should be 3 bolts around the headlight. Elise Parts sell wingnuts, and a piece to replace these if they are falling off [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=161&amp;products_id=356 Clam headlight bracket]<br /> <br /> [[Image:ClamHeadlightBolts.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> Take a picture of each light so that you can put them back in at the same angle as the old ones. The patterns on the headlight glass should not be 'vertical'.<br /> <br /> [[Image:PassengerNearSide.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> [[Image:DriversOffSide.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> The headlight is attached to the metal surround by 3 small screws, again these may be rusted.<br /> <br /> Remove the headlight.<br /> <br /> I then painted the headlight surround with hammerrite to cover the rust and hopefully make them last a few more years<br /> <br /> [[Image:PaintedSurround.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> Replace the headlight taking care to put it back at the same angle. Put it back onto the claim with springs and loosely tighten the wingnuts. Reattach the wiring<br /> <br /> Replace wheels, and put the car back in the same position and then adjust the wingnuts round the headlight to match it up with the orginal markings.<br /> <br /> I took the car along to my local garage to check on their light alignment tool, but nothing needed adjusting.<br /> <br /> See also [https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Adjust_Headlights_S1 Adjust Headlights S1]<br /> <br /> <br /> == Part Numbers ==<br /> <br /> &lt;table width=&quot;500&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; cellpadding=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot;&gt;<br /> &lt;tr&gt;<br /> &lt;td width=&quot;100&quot;&gt;'''Driven side'''&lt;/td&gt;<br /> &lt;td width=&quot;100&quot;&gt;'''Light Side'''&lt;/td&gt;<br /> &lt;td width=&quot;150&quot;&gt;'''Manufacturer'''&lt;/td&gt;<br /> &lt;td width=&quot;150&quot;&gt;'''Part Number'''&lt;/td&gt;<br /> &lt;/tr&gt;<br /> &lt;tr&gt;<br /> &lt;td width=&quot;100&quot;&gt;RHD&lt;/td&gt;<br /> &lt;td width=&quot;100&quot;&gt;Left&lt;/td&gt;<br /> &lt;td width=&quot;150&quot;&gt;Valeo&lt;/td&gt;<br /> &lt;td width=&quot;150&quot;&gt;460118&lt;/td&gt;<br /> &lt;/tr&gt;<br /> &lt;/table&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category:Body]]<br /> [[Category:Electrical]]<br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Adjust_Headlights_S1&diff=12420 2018-02-17T13:44:26Z

<p>Dr. Evil: Created page with &quot;The factory declination angle of the S1 headlights is 1.5º degrees. However, because the headlights are quit low to the ground, this angle doesn’t provide much forward ill...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>The factory declination angle of the S1 headlights is 1.5º degrees. However, because the headlights are quit low to the ground, this angle doesn’t provide much forward illumination, so an angle of 1.1-1.2º is preferable for daily driving, but may be marginal for an MOT/CT pass.<br /> <br /> To check the alignment<br /> <br /> #Set tyre pressures correctly.<br /> #Park the car on a very level surface 5m away from a vertical wall. Ballast the driver’s seat with 75KG passenger to get accurate readings but I don’t think this is strictly necessary.<br /> #Turn on the headlights in low beam. You should see a pattern like ___/___/ for LHD or \___\___ for RHD projected against the wall.<br /> #Put a tape measure just in front of each headlight so that the brightest part of the beam focuses on about a 1cm strip of the tape measure. Note the height where the brightest part ends. This is the reference height for the beam. The beam should be angled downwards from this height to avoid dazzling oncoming drivers.<br /> #Cover one light with a shop cloth so that the other headlight clearly projects a beam against the wall.<br /> #Measure the height of the beam against the wall where the horizontal line is projected, just where the beam starts angle upwards. This is the reference height. It is useful to mark this spot with a piece of tape for reference.<br /> #If the wall is 5m from the headlamp, the beam horizontal line projected on the wall should be 12 cm below the reference beam height for 1.5º or 10cm for 1.2º dip angle. It is useful to mark the target height with a piece of tape for reference. If the distance from the headlights to the wall is not exactly 5m, use the TAN function on a calculator to determine the correct drop.<br /> #You can adjust the height of the beam to hit the target height by removing the radiator shroud and reaching underneath the headlamp to turn the butterfly nut clockwise to raise the beam or counterclockwise to dip the beam.<br /> #Repeat steps 5-8 for the other headlight.<br /> <br /> The beams should also be projected parallel with the centerline of the car. To check<br /> #Measure the distance between the centerlines of the headlights<br /> #The centerline of each beam projection is the corner where each beam starts to angle up at 15º.<br /> #With headlights projected on the wall, measure the distance of the centerlines against the wall. This distance should the same as the distance between the centerlines of the headlights, and the centerlines should be equidistant from the centerline of the car.<br /> #Adjust by turning the butterfly nuts on the side of the headlamp brackets.</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Change_camshaft&diff=12416 2018-02-03T08:06:17Z

<p>Dr. Evil: /* Camshaft replacement */</p> <hr /> <div><br /> This method is for changing the camshafts without replacing the cambelt. It is possible to just loosen the cambelt tensioner to slide the belt off the camshaft pulleys without loosening the crankshaft bolt. With a few additions to this procedure, you could also replace the cambelt, tensioner and waterpump but these extra steps are left out.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Special tools ==<br /> <br /> * Low range torque wrench (10NM for cam carrier, cover etc)<br /> * High range torque wrench (65NM for pulley bolts etc)<br /> * 22mm offset ring spanner or cut-down 22mm socket to turn crankshaft<br /> <br /> <br /> == Parts List ==<br /> <br /> * Camshafts (I used MGTF 135 camshafts)<br /> * 2 x LUC100220 red/brown rear camshaft seals<br /> * 2 x LUC100290 black front camshaft seals<br /> * NJJ10001L or NJJ10001 – drive spindle if your camshaft doesn't have one<br /> * Camcover gasket<br /> * Rover K16 CAMLOCKING tool<br /> * Loctite 574 or OEM Rover liquid gasket LVV000108EVA (or another anaerobic sealant *not* silicone, hylomar or wellseal).<br /> * Cellulose thinners or acetone/nail polish remover<br /> <br /> <br /> == Optional ==<br /> <br /> * Pair of vernier pulleys<br /> <br /> <br /> == Preparation ==<br /> <br /> <br /> # Remove the diffuser and undertray<br /> # Loosen rear wheel nuts<br /> # Jack up the car and put the rear on axle stands underneath the engine subframe – jacking points D.<br /> # Remove RHS rear wheel<br /> # Remove RHS rear arch<br /> # Remove engine cover<br /> # Disconnect battery (important to avoid any risk that the starter is engaged while this work is being carried out)<br /> <br /> <br /> == Camshaft replacement ==<br /> <br /> # Remove spark plug cover, spark plugs and camshaft cover.<br /> # Remove upper outer timing belt cover; it is held in with 5 M6 bolts, + 1 hidden behind the oil dipstick tube<br /> # Turn crank clockwise with 22 mm offset ring spanner or cut-down socket to align engine to 90 BTDC so that the cam pulley marks line up. Insert camshaft locking tool to hold the pulleys. (At BTDC, the crankshaft is ‘flat’, 90 from vertical, and all pistons are at the middle of their stroke. In this position, there is no risk of piston contact with the valves, and the camshafts can be turned freely). Lock the flywheel with a large screwdriver or allen key slotted into the hole in the gearbox just in front of the RH drive-shaft.<br /> # With the cam locking tool holding the pulleys, loosen both 17mm bolts holding the pulleys onto the cams. Make sure both bolts are loose before removing a pulley or belt otherwise you won’t be able to loosen the other pulley.<br /> # Loosen cambelt tensioner, slide the top of the belt off the pulleys. <br /> # Remove the pulleys; rock them back and forth and they should come loose.<br /> # Loosen cam carrier bolts in order shown in service manual. Remove all the carrier bolts. Lift carrier off the head while holding the camshafts against the head so they don’t fall out of the carrier when you are lifting the carrier. <br /> # Remove old camshafts; <br /> # Clean off old sealant from cam ladder and head with cellulose thinners or acetone; make sure top-end is meticulously clean.<br /> # Remove the followers with a magnet and inspect/planish to remove all visible wear marks. Use wet/dry 180, then finish with wet/dry 240 against a glass plate or other flat surface. <br /> # If fitting symmetrical camshafts (eg MGTF135 or VVC EX), choose and mark one camshaft as intake and one as exhaust.<br /> # Fit the new dizzy drive spindle part NJJ10001L in the end of the new intake camshaft, using the same angle as the original camshaft as a guide (mine was about 14° from vertical). It helps to put the new spindle in the freezer before trying to fit it. Once it is loosely on at the correct angle, tap it in against a wood block until fully seated. <br /> # If fitting vernier pulleys, choose and mark one pulley as intake and one as exhaust. Carefully match new intake vernier to original intake pulley, mark 90 BTDC point. Repeat with exhaust pulleys. <br /> # Fit new cams with new oil seals at each end; red seals go to the back of the engine, black seals towards the front (behind the pulleys). The cams should be more or less positioned so that the cam lobes on cylinder one point in a downwards v-shape towards each other.<br /> # Put Loctite 574 or Rover Part # LVV000108EVA onto the clean cam carrier; Make a thin line, then smear wide and thin with your finger. You have 20 minutes to install and torque the ladder into place before the gasket material sets.<br /> # Progressively tighten the carrier bolts in order and torque as per manual to 10NM. As you tighten down the cam carrier the last 1-2mm onto the head, check again that the seals are square in their bores.<br /> # With the crankshaft still blocked at 90 BTDC, fit pulleys and rotate the camshafts to match the 90 BTDC marks and refit cam locking tool. Torque pulley bolts to camshafts to 65 NM<br /> # Fit cambelt over camshaft pulleys. Pull the belt up tight on the exhaust side, around the exhaust pulley, about half width. Remove the pulley locking tool and turn the intake pulley ½ a tooth clockwise and feed the belt onto the intake pulley, about half width. Feed the belt over the tensioner, if it doesn’t fit, turn the intake counter-clockwise a few degrees to pull the slack over to the tensioner. Re-check that the pulley marks are aligned. Adjust cambelt tensioner to correct tension mark. The manual tensioner adjuster nut should be tightened to 10nm and the main M8 hex bolt in the pulley to 45nm. <br /> # Remove pulley lock and remove flywheel locks. Turn crankshaft two full revolution clockwise back to 90 BTDC. There should be no ‘clicks’ or fouling of the valves on the pistons. Recheck that the pistons are at the same height, and that the timing marks line up on the pulleys. If there is a problem or doubt, ensure that the engine is at BTDC by rechecking piston heights are equal; then carefully check that the belt is properly fitted and that the pulleys are in the correct positions. On the non-firing strong at TDC, the camshaft lobes nearest the pulleys should be pointing in a downwards v-shaped towards each other; the intake is just about to open and the exhaust is just closing.<br /> # If you are going to time the camshafts; now is a good time to do it; see DVA Power excellent guide or the MGTF forum instructions.<br /> # Refit sparkplugs, distributor rotor and cap, cam cover with gasket, cambelt cover, wheel arch, reverse preparation steps.</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Change_camshaft&diff=12408 2018-01-29T07:32:52Z

<p>Dr. Evil: /* Camshaft replacement */</p> <hr /> <div><br /> This method is for changing the camshafts without replacing the cambelt. It is possible to just loosen the cambelt tensioner to slide the belt off the camshaft pulleys without loosening the crankshaft bolt. With a few additions to this procedure, you could also replace the cambelt, tensioner and waterpump but these extra steps are left out.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Special tools ==<br /> <br /> * Low range torque wrench (10NM for cam carrier, cover etc)<br /> * High range torque wrench (65NM for pulley bolts etc)<br /> * 22mm offset ring spanner or cut-down 22mm socket to turn crankshaft<br /> <br /> <br /> == Parts List ==<br /> <br /> * Camshafts (I used MGTF 135 camshafts)<br /> * 2 x LUC100220 red/brown rear camshaft seals<br /> * 2 x LUC100290 black front camshaft seals<br /> * NJJ10001L or NJJ10001 – drive spindle if your camshaft doesn't have one<br /> * Camcover gasket<br /> * Rover K16 CAMLOCKING tool<br /> * Loctite 574 or OEM Rover liquid gasket LVV000108EVA (or another anaerobic sealant *not* silicone, hylomar or wellseal).<br /> * Cellulose thinners or acetone/nail polish remover<br /> <br /> <br /> == Optional ==<br /> <br /> * Pair of vernier pulleys<br /> <br /> <br /> == Preparation ==<br /> <br /> <br /> # Remove the diffuser and undertray<br /> # Loosen rear wheel nuts<br /> # Jack up the car and put the rear on axle stands underneath the engine subframe – jacking points D.<br /> # Remove RHS rear wheel<br /> # Remove RHS rear arch<br /> # Remove engine cover<br /> # Disconnect battery (important to avoid any risk that the starter is engaged while this work is being carried out)<br /> <br /> <br /> == Camshaft replacement ==<br /> <br /> # Remove spark plug cover, spark plugs and camshaft cover.<br /> # Remove upper outer timing belt cover; it is held in with 5 M6 bolts, + 1 hidden behind the oil dipstick tube<br /> # Turn crank clockwise with 22 mm spanner or socket to align engine to 90 BTDC ensuring cam pulleys and crank pulley marks all line up. Insert camshaft locking tool to hold the pulleys. (At BTDC, the crankshaft is ‘flat’, 90 from vertical, and all pistons are at the middle of their stroke. In this position, there is no risk of piston contact with the valves, and the camshafts can be turned freely). Lock the flywheel with a large screwdriver or allen key slotted into the hole just in front of the RH rear drive-shaft<br /> # With the cam locking tool holding the pulleys, loosen the bolts holding the pulleys onto the cams. Make sure both bolts are loose before removing a pulley otherwise you won’t be able to loosen the other pulley 17mm.<br /> # Loosen cambelt tensioner, slide the top of the belt off the pulleys.<br /> # Remove the pulleys; rock them back and forth and they should come loose.<br /> # Loosen cam carrier bolts in order shown in service manual. Remove all the carrier bolts. Lift carrier off the head while holding the camshafts against the head so they don’t fall out of the carrier when you are lifting the carrier. <br /> # Remove old camshafts; <br /> # Clean off old sealant from cam ladder and head with cellulose thinners or acetone; make sure top-end is meticulously clean.<br /> # Remove the followers and inspect/planish to remove all visible wear marks. Use wet/dry 180, then finish with wet/dry 240 against a glass plate or other flat surface. <br /> # if fitting symetrical camshafts (eg MGTF135 or VVC EX), choose and mark one camshaft as intake and one as exhaust.<br /> # fit the new dizzy drive spindle part NJJ10001L in the end of the new intake camshaft, using the same angle as the original camshaft as a guide (mine was about 14° from vertical). It helps to put the new spindle in the freezer before trying to fit it. Once it is at the correct angle, tap it in against a wood block. <br /> # if fitting vernier pulleys, choose and mark one pulley as intake and one as exhaust. Carefully match new intake vernier to original intake pulley, mark 90 BTDC point. Repeat with exhaust pulleys. <br /> # fit new cams with new oil seals at each end; red seals go to the back of the engine, black seals towards the front (behind the pulleys)<br /> # Put Loctite 574 or Rover Part # LVV000108EVA onto the clean cam carrier; Make a thin line, then smear wide and thin with your finger. You have 20 minutes to install and torque the ladder into place before the gasket material sets.<br /> # Progressively tighten the carrier bolts in order and torque as per manual to 10NM. As you tighten down the cam carrier the last 1-2mm onto the head, check again that the seals are square in their bores.<br /> # With the crankshaft still blocked at 90 BTDC, fit pulleys and rotate the camshafts to match the 90 BTDC marks and refit cam locking tool. Torque pulley bolts to camshafts to 65 NM<br /> # Fit cambelt over camshaft pulleys. Pull the belt up tight on the exhaust side, around the exhaust pulley, about half width. Remove the pulley locking tool and turn the intake pulley ½ a tooth clockwise and feed the belt onto the intake pulley, about half width. Feed the belt over the tensioner, if it doesn’t fit, turn the intake counter-clockwise a few degrees to pull the slack over to the tensioner. Re-check that the pulley marks are aligned. Adjust cambelt tensioner to correct tension mark. The manual tensioner adjuster nut should be tightened to 10nm and the main M8 hex bolt in the pulley to 45nm. <br /> # Remove pulley lock and remove flywheel locks. Turn engine two full revolution clockwise back to BTDC. There should be no ‘clicks’ or fouling of the valves on the pistons. Recheck that the pistons are at the same height, and that the timing marks line up on the pulleys. If there is a problem or doubt, ensure that the engine is at BTDC by rechecking piston heights are equal; then carefully check that the belt is properly fitted and that the pulleys are in the correct positions. On the non-firing strong at TDC, the camshaft lobes nearest the pulleys should be pointing v-shaped towards each other; the intake is just about to open and the exhaust is just closing<br /> # If you are going to time the camshafts; now is a good time to do it; see DVA Power excellent guide or the MGTF forum instructions.<br /> # Refit sparkplugs, distributor rotor and cap, cam cover with gasket, cambelt cover, wheel arch, reverse preparation steps.</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Change_camshaft&diff=12407 2018-01-29T07:20:10Z

<p>Dr. Evil: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> This method is for changing the camshafts without replacing the cambelt. It is possible to just loosen the cambelt tensioner to slide the belt off the camshaft pulleys without loosening the crankshaft bolt. With a few additions to this procedure, you could also replace the cambelt, tensioner and waterpump but these extra steps are left out.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Special tools ==<br /> <br /> * Low range torque wrench (10NM for cam carrier, cover etc)<br /> * High range torque wrench (65NM for pulley bolts etc)<br /> * 22mm offset ring spanner or cut-down 22mm socket to turn crankshaft<br /> <br /> <br /> == Parts List ==<br /> <br /> * Camshafts (I used MGTF 135 camshafts)<br /> * 2 x LUC100220 red/brown rear camshaft seals<br /> * 2 x LUC100290 black front camshaft seals<br /> * NJJ10001L or NJJ10001 – drive spindle if your camshaft doesn't have one<br /> * Camcover gasket<br /> * Rover K16 CAMLOCKING tool<br /> * Loctite 574 or OEM Rover liquid gasket LVV000108EVA (or another anaerobic sealant *not* silicone, hylomar or wellseal).<br /> * Cellulose thinners or acetone/nail polish remover<br /> <br /> <br /> == Optional ==<br /> <br /> * Pair of vernier pulleys<br /> <br /> <br /> == Preparation ==<br /> <br /> <br /> # Remove the diffuser and undertray<br /> # Loosen rear wheel nuts<br /> # Jack up the car and put the rear on axle stands underneath the engine subframe – jacking points D.<br /> # Remove RHS rear wheel<br /> # Remove RHS rear arch<br /> # Remove engine cover<br /> # Disconnect battery (important to avoid any risk that the starter is engaged while this work is being carried out)<br /> <br /> <br /> == Camshaft replacement ==<br /> <br /> # Remove spark plug cover and spark plugs<br /> # Remove upper outer timing belt cover; it is held in with 5 M6 bolts, + 1 hidden behind the oil dipstick tube<br /> # Turn crank clockwise with 22 mm spanner or socket to align engine to 90 BTDC ensuring cam pulleys and crank pulley marks all line up. Insert camshaft locking tool to hold the pulleys. (At BTDC, the crankshaft is ‘flat’, 90 from vertical, and all pistons are at the middle of their stroke. In this position, there is no risk of piston contact with the valves, and the camshafts can be turned freely). Lock the flywheel with a large screwdriver or allen key slotted into the hole just in front of the RH rear drive-shaft<br /> # With the cam locking tool holding the pulleys, loosen the bolts holding the pulleys onto the cams. Make sure both bolts are loose before removing a pulley otherwise you won’t be able to loosen the other pulley 17mm.<br /> # Loosen cambelt tensioner, slide the top of the belt off the pulleys.<br /> # Remove the pulleys; rock them back and forth and they should come loose.<br /> # Loosen cam carrier bolts in order shown in service manual. Remove all the carrier bolts. Lift carrier off the head while holding the camshafts against the head so they don’t fall out of the carrier when you are lifting the carrier. <br /> # Remove old camshafts; <br /> # Clean off old sealant from cam ladder and head with cellulose thinners or acetone; make sure top-end is meticulously clean.<br /> # Remove the followers and inspect/planish to remove all visible wear marks. Use wet/dry 180, then finish with wet/dry 240 against a glass plate or other flat surface. <br /> # if fitting symetrical camshafts (eg MGTF135 or VVC EX), choose and mark one camshaft as intake and one as exhaust.<br /> # fit the new dizzy drive spindle part NJJ10001L in the end of the new intake camshaft, using the same angle as the original camshaft as a guide (mine was about 14° from vertical). It helps to put the new spindle in the freezer before trying to fit it. Once it is at the correct angle, tap it in against a wood block. <br /> # if fitting vernier pulleys, choose and mark one pulley as intake and one as exhaust. Carefully match new intake vernier to original intake pulley, mark 90 BTDC point. Repeat with exhaust pulleys. <br /> # fit new cams with new oil seals at each end; red seals go to the back of the engine, black seals towards the front (behind the pulleys)<br /> # Put Loctite 574 or Rover Part # LVV000108EVA onto the clean cam carrier; Make a thin line, then smear wide and thin with your finger. You have 20 minutes to install and torque the ladder into place before the gasket material sets.<br /> # Progressively tighten the carrier bolts in order and torque as per manual to 10NM. As you tighten down the cam carrier the last 1-2mm onto the head, check again that the seals are square in their bores.<br /> # With the crankshaft still blocked at 90 BTDC, fit pulleys and rotate the camshafts to match the 90 BTDC marks and refit cam locking tool. Torque pulley bolts to camshafts to 65 NM<br /> # Fit cambelt over camshaft pulleys. Pull the belt up tight on the exhaust side, around the exhaust pulley, about half width. Remove the pulley locking tool and turn the intake pulley ½ a tooth clockwise and feed the belt onto the intake pulley, about half width. Feed the belt over the tensioner, if it doesn’t fit, turn the intake counter-clockwise a few degrees to pull the slack over to the tensioner. Re-check that the pulley marks are aligned. Adjust cambelt tensioner to correct tension mark. The manual tensioner adjuster nut should be tightened to 10nm and the main M8 hex bolt in the pulley to 45nm. <br /> # Remove pulley lock and remove flywheel locks. Turn engine two full revolution clockwise back to BTDC. There should be no ‘clicks’ or fouling of the valves on the pistons. Recheck that the pistons are at the same height, and that the timing marks line up on the pulleys. If there is a problem or doubt, ensure that the engine is at BTDC by rechecking piston heights are equal; then carefully check that the belt is properly fitted and that the pulleys are in the correct positions. On the non-firing strong at TDC, the camshaft lobes nearest the pulleys should be pointing v-shaped towards each other; the intake is just about to open and the exhaust is just closing<br /> # If you are going to time the camshafts; now is a good time to do it; see DVA Power excellent guide or the MGTF forum instructions.<br /> # Refit sparkplugs, distributor rotor and cap, cam cover with gasket, cambelt cover, wheel arch, reverse preparation steps.</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Change_camshaft&diff=12406 2018-01-28T17:37:47Z

<p>Dr. Evil: CAMSHAFT CHANGE for non-VVC EU2 distributor model</p> <hr /> <div><br /> This method is for changing the camshafts without replacing the cambelt. It is possible to just loosen the cambelt tensioner to slide the belt off the camshaft pulleys without loosening the crankshaft bolt. With a few additions to this procedure, you could also replace the cambelt, tensioner and waterpump but these extra steps are left out.<br /> <br /> <br /> == Special tools ==<br /> <br /> * Low range torque wrench (10NM for cam carrier, cover etc)<br /> * High range torque wrench (65NM for pulley bolts etc)<br /> * 22mm offset ring spanner or cut-down 22mm socket to turn crankshaft<br /> <br /> <br /> == PARTS LIST ==<br /> <br /> * Camshafts (I used MGTF 135 camshafts)<br /> * 2 x LUC100220 red/brown rear camshaft seals<br /> * 2 x LUC100290 black front camshaft seals<br /> * NJJ10001L or NJJ10001 – drive spindle if your camshaft doesn't have one<br /> * Camcover gasket<br /> * ROVER K16 CAMLOCKING tool<br /> * Loctite 574 or OEM Rover liquid gasket LVV000108EVA (or another anaerobic sealant *not* silicone, hylomar or wellseal).<br /> * cellulose thinners or acetone/nail polish remover<br /> <br /> <br /> == Optional ==<br /> <br /> * Pair of vernier pulleys<br /> <br /> <br /> == Preparation ==<br /> <br /> <br /> # Remove the diffuser and undertray<br /> # Loosen rear wheel nuts<br /> # Jack up the car and put the rear on axle stands underneath the engine subframe – jacking points D.<br /> # Remove RHS rear wheel<br /> # Remove RHS rear arch<br /> # Remove engine cover<br /> # Disconnect battery (important to avoid any risk that the starter is engaged while this work is being carried out)<br /> <br /> <br /> == Camshaft replacement ==<br /> <br /> # Remove spark plug cover and spark plugs<br /> # Remove upper outer timing belt cover; it is held in with 5 M6 bolts, + 1 hidden behind the oil dipstick tube<br /> # Turn crank clockwise with 22 mm spanner or socket to align engine to 90 BTDC ensuring cam pulleys and crank pulley marks all line up. Insert camshaft locking tool to hold the pulleys. (At BTDC, the crankshaft is ‘flat’, 90 from vertical, and all pistons are at the middle of their stroke. In this position, there is no risk of piston contact with the valves, and the camshafts can be turned freely). Lock the flywheel with a large screwdriver or allen key slotted into the hole just in front of the RH rear drive-shaft<br /> # With the cam locking tool holding the pulleys, loosen the bolts holding the pulleys onto the cams. Make sure both bolts are loose before removing a pulley otherwise you won’t be able to loosen the other pulley 17mm.<br /> # Loosen cambelt tensioner, slide the top of the belt off the pulleys.<br /> # Remove the pulleys; rock them back and forth and they should come loose.<br /> # Loosen cam carrier bolts in order shown in service manual. Remove all the carrier bolts. Lift carrier off the head while holding the camshafts against the head so they don’t fall out of the carrier when you are lifting the carrier. <br /> # Remove old camshafts; <br /> # Clean off old sealant from cam ladder and head with cellulose thinners or acetone; make sure top-end is meticulously clean.<br /> # Remove the followers and inspect/planish to remove all visible wear marks. Use wet/dry 180, then finish with wet/dry 240 against a glass plate or other flat surface. <br /> # if fitting symetrical camshafts (eg MGTF135 or VVC EX), choose and mark one camshaft as intake and one as exhaust.<br /> # fit the new dizzy drive spindle part NJJ10001L in the end of the new intake camshaft, using the same angle as the original camshaft as a guide (mine was about 14° from vertical). It helps to put the new spindle in the freezer before trying to fit it. Once it is at the correct angle, tap it in against a wood block. <br /> # if fitting vernier pulleys, choose and mark one pulley as intake and one as exhaust. Carefully match new intake vernier to original intake pulley, mark 90 BTDC point. Repeat with exhaust pulleys. <br /> # fit new cams with new oil seals at each end; red seals go to the back of the engine, black seals towards the front (behind the pulleys)<br /> # Put Loctite 574 or Rover Part # LVV000108EVA onto the clean cam carrier; Make a thin line, then smear wide and thin with your finger. You have 20 minutes to install and torque the ladder into place before the gasket material sets.<br /> # Progressively tighten the carrier bolts in order and torque as per manual to 10NM. As you tighten down the cam carrier the last 1-2mm onto the head, check again that the seals are square in their bores.<br /> # With the crankshaft still blocked at 90 BTDC, fit pulleys and rotate the camshafts to match the 90 BTDC marks and refit cam locking tool. Torque pulley bolts to camshafts to 65 NM<br /> # Fit cambelt over camshaft pulleys. Pull the belt up tight on the exhaust side, around the exhaust pulley, about half width. Remove the pulley locking tool and turn the intake pulley ½ a tooth clockwise and feed the belt onto the intake pulley, about half width. Feed the belt over the tensioner, if it doesn’t fit, turn the intake counter-clockwise a few degrees to pull the slack over to the tensioner. Re-check that the pulley marks are aligned. Adjust cambelt tensioner to correct tension mark. The manual tensioner adjuster nut should be tightened to 10nm and the main M8 hex bolt in the pulley to 45nm. <br /> # Remove pulley lock and remove flywheel locks. Turn engine two full revolution clockwise back to BTDC. There should be no ‘clicks’ or fouling of the valves on the pistons. Recheck that the pistons are at the same height, and that the timing marks line up on the pulleys. If there is a problem or doubt, ensure that the engine is at BTDC by rechecking piston heights are equal; then carefully check that the belt is properly fitted and that the pulleys are in the correct positions. On the non-firing strong at TDC, the camshaft lobes nearest the pulleys should be pointing v-shaped towards each other; the intake is just about to open and the exhaust is just closing<br /> # If you are going to time the camshafts; now is a good time to do it; see DVA Power excellent guide or the MGTF forum instructions.<br /> # Refit sparkplugs, distributor rotor and cap, cam cover with gasket, cambelt cover, wheel arch, reverse preparation steps.</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Striker_pins&diff=12115 2017-03-19T11:51:50Z

<p>Dr. Evil: </p> <hr /> <div>The doors striker pin on the S1 Elise is 10mm in diameter. The doors striker pins on later model S2 Elises (what years?) are slightly too small in diameter (~9mm?) causing the door to rattle when driving over bumps in the road. It can be most off putting and sometimes result in the driver thinking there's something seriously wrong with the car.<br /> <br /> '''NOTE: This only affects the S2 Elise'''<br /> <br /> There are several solutions to resolve this problem all of which simply increase the diameter of the striker pin.<br /> <br /> == Get a new one ==<br /> Purchase a new striker pin which is slightly larger in diameter than the stock item which stops the door rattling. You need a 17mm spanner for this job.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:new1.jpg|Larger After market S2 Striker Pins<br /> Image:new2.jpg|Larger After market S2 Striker Pins<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> === Sources ===<br /> EliseShop sell new striker pins:<br /> * http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=5&amp;products_id=613<br /> <br /> The seller 'jess9blue' sometimes has these for sale on eBay:<br /> * http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZjess9blueQQhtZ-1<br /> <br /> <br /> == Bodge repair the existing ==<br /> === Electric Tape ===<br /> For the lazy or spanner inept among us, a simple fix is to wrap some electrical tape around the pins (making them bigger in diameter). This will have to be re-applied over time as the tape will slowly become ripped.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:Pins3.JPG|Tape Around Pins<br /> Image:Pins4.JPG|Wrapping Tape Around The Pins<br /> Image:Pins5.JPG|Tape Requiring a re-application<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> === String ===<br /> Having used the tape method for a few months I did not like it a lot, it looked bad and did not really work. I fixed the issue by using simple string (the kind used to wrap parcels). Drop of super glue to fix the end, then wrap it around tightly and neatly and fixing the other end with another drop of super glue. If you want it to last for years use a bit of wood glue to soak the string all around, will make it very durable. My doors now shut like on a Merc. Okay, not really, but a lot better. <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Category:Body]]<br /> [[Category:Interior]]<br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Tyres&diff=12088 2017-02-05T13:37:33Z

<p>Dr. Evil: /* Elise S1 */</p> <hr /> <div>{| border=&quot;1&quot;<br /> |-<br /> | ||[[S2_Wheel_Options#OZ_Racing|OZ Racing]]||[[S2_Wheel_Options#Rimstock_6-spoke|Standard S2]]||Standard S1<br /> |-<br /> |[[#AO48 LTS|Yokohama AO48]]||Yes|| ||<br /> |-<br /> |[[#AD07 LTS|Yokohama AD07]]|| ||Yes||<br /> |-<br /> |[[#RE040|Bridgestone RE040]]|| ||Yes ||<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Please add knowledge, its easy just press edit'''<br /> <br /> ===Elise S1===<br /> <br /> Single piece, light alloy roadwheels, in various styles, were fitted with Pirelli P Zero tyres, engineered to<br /> provide the optimum balance of ride and handling characteristics. Pirelli P Zero are the recommended tyres for use on the vehicle under normal road conditions.<br /> <br /> Note that the tyre tread pattern is asymmetric with the tyre sidewalls marked ‘Inner’ and ‘Outer’; check that replacement tyres are correctly fitted. <br /> Part of the tread pattern is also directional in appearance, but the direction of rotation has no bearing on the tyre performance.<br /> <br /> Pirelli have ceased manufacture of the P Zero (Nov 2007) and Group Lotus now recommend the Yokohama C-Drive. Note that the only way to mix tyres is with a pair of P Zeros on the front and a pair of C-Drives on the back. Details are on the Lotus web site at http://www.grouplotus.com/media/car/doc/Wheels%20&amp;%20Tyres_Website.pdf<br /> <br /> In order to give S1 Elise owners an alternative tyre choice with an emphasis on track performance,<br /> Yokohama and Lotus jointly developed the Advan Neova tyre.<br /> This construction, which is not generallyavailable in Europe, features an assymetric directional tread pattern with special attention having been<br /> paid during development to provide improvements in vehicle balance, wet grip and comfort without sacrificing general agility.<br /> Sizes are 195/50x15 front, and 225/45x16 rear, to fit standard Elise roadwheels.<br /> <br /> Tyres may be ordered through Lotus dealers and should be fitted in complete vehicle sets. <br /> Note that the increased width of the front tyre (standard = 185/55 R15) requires that an extension lip be applied around the front wheelarch to provide the necessary tyre coverage - see your dealer.<br /> Since these tyres have not been homologated in all territories, customers should check the legality of these tyres with the appropriate authorities in their country of residence.<br /> <br /> Various wheel types have been used.<br /> The first cars were fitted with wheels having 5 split-spokes made by AWI, which wheels are now no longer available. <br /> These wheels were replaced in April ’99 by a 12 spoke design made by Rimstock, <br /> whilst the 111S model featured a 6 spoke design by O.Z. with ½” wider (7.5J) rear rims. The Sport 160 used wider ‘Victory’ wheels with 6J and 8J rims.<br /> <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot;<br /> |'''S1 Tyre Options'''||'''185/55 R15'''||'''195/50 R15'''||'''205/50 R16'''||'''225/45 R16'''<br /> |-<br /> |Toyo T1-R||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes<br /> |-<br /> |Yokohama C-Drive||Yes|| ||Yes||<br /> |-<br /> |Yokohama Advan Neova LTS|| ||Yes || ||Yes <br /> |-<br /> |Yokohama A048|| ||Yes || ||Yes <br /> |-<br /> |Hankook RS-2|| ||Yes || ||Yes <br /> |-<br /> |Toyo R888|| ||Yes || ||Yes <br /> |-<br /> |Dunlop SP9000|| ||Yes || ||Yes <br /> |-<br /> |Falken Ziex ZE-512||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes <br /> |-<br /> |Kumho Ecsta Sport KU31||Yes ||Yes ||Yes ||Yes<br /> |-<br /> |Bridgestone Potenza RE050 || || || Yes || <br /> |-<br /> |Uniroyal RainSport 3||Yes|| ||Yes||<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> * From sizes offered by [http://www.blackcircles.com/ BlackCircles], [http://www.event-tyres.co.uk/ Event Tyres], [http://www.camskill.co.uk/ Camskill] or the manufactures website. <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Tyre Pressure(when cold): Front(185/195) 1,6Bar. Rear(205) 1,7Bar. (225) 1,9Bar'''<br /> <br /> ===340R===<br /> <br /> were fitted with beither 10 spoke magnesium wheels by Tecnomagesio, or 10 spoke alloy wheels by Rimstock, but both wheel types required 6mm longer wheel studs.<br /> Track biased Yokohama A038-R tyres were used. <br /> <br /> ===S1 Exige===<br /> <br /> used Rimstock 12 spoke wheels larger in diameter and width than the Elise, and fitted with Lotus specification Yokohama A039 tyres.<br /> These Exige wheels use 60 degree taper wheelnuts as opposed to the spherical seat nuts used on other Elise variants.<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Pressure(When Cold): Front 1,6Bar Rear 1,8Bar'''<br /> <br /> ===S2 Elise===<br /> <br /> Lotus engineers have worked with the tyre manufacturer Bridgestone, to produce a version of the<br /> ‘Potenza’ tyre specifically for the ‘Mk.2’ Elise, to optimise performance on both road and track.<br /> This tyre is identified by the construction code element of the DOT code moulded on one of the tyre sidewalls, and it<br /> is most important that ONLY this version is fitted if the correct handling characteristics are to be maintained.<br /> The rear tyre is NOT the same as fitted to Opel Speedster/Vauxhall VX220. <br /> <br /> Lotus front tyre code; CFE.<br /> <br /> Lotus rear tyre code; DCK.<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=107800 Yoko AD 07's v Bridgestone RE040]<br /> <br /> The S2 Elise uses different hubs from the S1, with roadwheels having a larger diameter and PCD, such<br /> that there is no interchangeability between models. Rimstock wheels with both 6 and 8 spoke designs have been used, both of which are retained with four conical wheelbolts.<br /> Some 8 spoke wheels are<br /> finished in ‘high power silver’ which can be very difficult to shade match.<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Pressure(When cold): Front 1,8Bar (26 psi) Rear 2,0Bar (29 psi)'''<br /> <br /> ===Sport 135 and Lotus Sport 111 versions===<br /> <br /> use Yokohama A048 tyres mounted on 16 spoke O.Z. roadwheels in conjunction with sports suspension. <br /> The wider front tyre (195/50) is fitted on a wider front wheel rim. Lotus approves of this tyre fitment only as part of the complete Sport 135R/111 package.<br /> The tyres should not be fitted on standard specification wheels, or with standard suspension.<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Elise 111R/Exige S2/USA Elise===<br /> <br /> The 111R originally used the same Bridgestone Potenza RE040 tyres as ‘Mk.2’ Elise, but re-classified to ‘W’<br /> speed rating. However following the release of the Federal (USA) Elise UK cars are now fitted with the Yokohama Neova AD07 tyres.<br /> <br /> The S2 Exige uses the Yokohama A048 tyres as used on Sport 135R/111. <br /> <br /> USA Elise are fitted with specially developed Yokohama Neova AD07 tyres.<br /> <br /> Standard Elise roadwheels are the same style and rim diameters as on ‘Mk.2’ cars, but the rear wheels<br /> have a greater inset to accommodate the repositioned suspension pick up points, and the front wheels<br /> have been re-classified to a higher load rating.<br /> <br /> Exige models use a unique 8 twin spoke design, with a wider front rim (6.5J compared with 6J for the Elise) for the A048 tyres. The Yokohama AD07 tyres (175mm width) are not recommended for the Exige wheels. A number of SELOC members have written to Lotus Cars to request the AD07 be made available in a 195mm width to provide a more road biased option than the AO48.<br /> <br /> Fitting wheel and tyre configurations not tested or approved by Lotus can result in chassis or body foul,<br /> adversely affecting handling or braking, wheel security or other dangerous conditions and should not be attempted without expert advice.<br /> <br /> ==Manufacturers==<br /> ===Yokohama===<br /> ====Advan Neova AD05/AD06 LTS====<br /> [[Image:LTS.jpg|thumb|left| Yokohama Advan Neova LTS]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ====AD07 LTS====<br /> [[Image:ADO7.JPG|thumb|left| Yokohama AD07 LTS These are 111R OEM]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ====AO38 LTS====<br /> [[Image:AO38.JPG|thumb|left|Yokohama AO38 LTS These are 340R (195/50 R15 82V,225/45 R16 89W) OEM and for Superior S1 grip]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ====AO48 LTS====<br /> [[Image:AO48.JPG|thumb|left|Yokohama AO48 LTS These are S2 135R, S2 Sport 190 and S2 Exige OEM(195/50 R16 84V,225/45 R17 90W)]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ====C-Drive====<br /> [[Image:Cdrive.jpg|thumb|left| Yokohama C-Drive Current S1 replacement Tyre 185/55R15, 205/55R16]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ===Bridgestone===<br /> ====RE040====<br /> [[Image:RE040.jpg|thumb|left|Bridgestone RE040 LTS S2 K-Series OEM]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ====RE050====<br /> Bridgestone Potenza RE050 Fit for S1 rears only in 205/50/16<br /> <br /> ===Dunlop===<br /> ====SP9000====<br /> [[Image:SP9000.JPG|thumb|left|SP9000's]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ===Toyo===<br /> ====Proxes T1-R====<br /> [[Image:TR1.JPG|thumb|left|T1-R's]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> ====Proxes R1R====<br /> [[Image:R1R.JPG|thumb|left|R1R's]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> ====Proxes R888====<br /> [[Image:888s.JPG|thumb|left|R888's]]<br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ===Kumho===<br /> ====Ecsta V700====<br /> [[Image:ImgTyrV70A.gif|thumb|left|Kumho Ecsta V700]]<br /> <br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ====Ecsta Sport KU31====<br /> [[Image:ImgTyrV701A.jpg|thumb|left|Ecsta Sport KU31 15R50/195: 8,8kg, 16R45/225 9,2Kg]]<br /> <br /> [http://www.kumhotire.com/tire/tire_detail.jsp?prdt_id=16 Kumho KU31 product page]<br /> <br /> Treadwear 320 Traction AA Temperature A<br /> <br /> Tread depth new 8mm<br /> <br /> <br /> Approximate cost (May 2008):<br /> <br /> 195/50R15 £45ea, fitted. <br /> 225/45R16 £61ea, fitted. <br /> <br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ===Hankook===<br /> ====Ventus RS-2====<br /> [[Image:VENTUSRS-2Z212.jpg|thumb|left|Ventus RS-2 Z212]]<br /> <br /> {{clr}}<br /> <br /> ==What do the Treadwear, Traction and Temperature markings mean?==<br /> <br /> These makings are to satisfy the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's (NHTSA) Uniform Tire Quality Grade Standards (UTQG). Only passenger car tyres sold in the U.S.A. market are required to have UTQG markings.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Treadwear'''<br /> <br /> The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test track. A tire graded 200 would wear twice as long on the government test course under specified test conditions as one graded 100. <br /> <br /> Treadwear should not be used in comparison between different tyre manufactures because each manufacturer may use a different base figure. <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Traction'''<br /> <br /> Traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B and C. They represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Temperature'''<br /> <br /> This rating grades a tyres ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. The temperature grades from highest to lowest, are A, B and C. These represent the tire's resistance to the generation of heat. <br /> <br /> <br /> ==The LAW &amp; your tyres==<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Tyrelawdepth1.gif]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Sources:<br /> <br /> [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UTQG Wikipedia UTQG]<br /> <br /> [http://www.toyo.com.au/tech_info4.html Toyo Technical Information Issue #4]<br /> <br /> [http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiresandwheels.html#UTQGS Understanding Tyres and Wheels, cars101.com]<br /> <br /> ==Tyre Links==<br /> [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_tyre Wikipedia on Tyres]<br /> <br /> [http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html The Wheel and Tyre Bible]<br /> <br /> [http://www.bridgestone.co.uk/ Bridgestone UK]<br /> <br /> [http://www.toyo.co.uk/ Toyo Tyres UK]<br /> <br /> [http://www.yokohamatire.com/ Yokohama Tyres]<br /> <br /> [http://www.kumhotire.com/tire/tire_main.jsp Kumho Global Tyre Range]<br /> <br /> == '''Tyre options - the opinions''' ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Unfortunately tyres are a matter of opinion, subjective at that, and suitability for the user. However you have to bear in mind that you cannot readily &quot;try before you buy&quot; so this section has been added to give the heads up on tyre choice. Please note they are only for guidance and other opinions and tyres are available ! Your feedback will be appreciated.<br /> <br /> If you want to add a review then please do - data sourced from the following thread.<br /> <br /> http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=99391<br /> <br /> == Car/tyre Details:- S2 111s/Bridgestone RE040==<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Driver:''' Lotusnick<br /> <br /> '''Model:''' S2 111s<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Brand:''' Bridgestone<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Model:''' RE040<br /> <br /> '''Size/rating:''' 175/55/16 - 225/45/17<br /> <br /> '''Wheel option:''' STD 111s<br /> <br /> '''Suspension:''' Ohlins Road &amp; Track<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Rating:-===<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Dry Grip:''' 3<br /> <br /> '''Wet Grip:''' 3<br /> <br /> '''Life:''' 4<br /> <br /> '''On limit predictability:''' 5<br /> <br /> '''Value for money:''' 5<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Comment:'''<br /> Decent grip in all conditions and suit the steering and balance of the car. The skinny fronts make braking on the limit tricky<br /> <br /> == Car/tyre Details:- S2 111s/Toyo T1-R==<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Driver:''' Lotusnick<br /> <br /> '''Model:''' S2 111s<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Brand:''' Toyo<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Model:''' T1-R<br /> <br /> '''Size/rating:''' 185/50/16 - 225/45/17<br /> <br /> '''Wheel option:''' STD 111s<br /> <br /> '''Suspension:''' Ohlins Road &amp; Track<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Rating:-===<br /> <br /> '''Dry Grip:''' 3<br /> <br /> '''Wet Grip:''' 4<br /> <br /> '''Life:''' 5<br /> <br /> '''On limit predictability:''' 5<br /> <br /> '''Value for money:''' 5<br /> <br /> '''Comment:'''<br /> Very soft sidewalls, that improve the ride but remove most of the directness and the steering feel from the Elise. Quite decent on wet and dry grip, with better braking than the skinny 175 Bridgestones.<br /> <br /> == Car/tyre Details:- S2 135R/Toyo T1-R==<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Driver:''' Lawrence5<br /> <br /> '''Model:''' S2 135R<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Brand:''' Toyo<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Model:''' T1-R<br /> <br /> '''Size/rating:''' 195/50/16 - 225/45/17<br /> <br /> '''Wheel option:''' OZ’s<br /> <br /> '''Suspension:''' Lotus Sport Suspension<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Rating:-===<br /> <br /> '''Dry Grip:''' 3<br /> <br /> '''Wet Grip:''' 4<br /> <br /> '''Life:''' 5<br /> <br /> '''On limit predictability:''' 5<br /> <br /> '''Value for money:''' 4<br /> <br /> '''Comment:'''<br /> Destroyed the ride to the point of often feeling sick over undulating surfaces. Very soft sidewalls rob a bit of steering feel and initial turn in. Well balanced front to back running 24psi /26psi. Acceptable dry grip but real gain is in the wet and cold coming over from A048’s. Bargain price makes them a good winter/commute choice – esp if you have a 2nd set of rims for spirited driving.<br /> <br /> == Car/tyre Details:- S2 111s/Toyo R888==<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Driver:''' Lotusnick<br /> <br /> '''Model:''' S2 111s<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Brand:''' Toyo<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Model:''' R888<br /> <br /> '''Size/rating:''' 195/50/16 - 225/45/17<br /> <br /> '''Wheel option:''' STD 111s<br /> <br /> '''Suspension:''' Bespoke Ohlins<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Rating:-===<br /> <br /> '''Dry Grip:''' 5<br /> <br /> '''Wet Grip:''' 4<br /> <br /> '''Life:''' 3<br /> <br /> '''On limit predictability:''' 3<br /> <br /> '''Value for money:''' 5<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Comment:'''<br /> A Semislick that has awesome grip in the dry and better than expected grip in wet conditions. Demands some respect in very wet/cold weather as would any tyre. Good value for money, compared to AO48's<br /> <br /> == Car/tyre Details:- S2 135R/Yokohama A048 LTS==<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Driver:''' Lawrence5<br /> <br /> '''Model:''' S2 135R<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Brand:''' Yokohama<br /> <br /> '''Tyre Model:''' A048 LTS<br /> <br /> '''Size/rating:''' 195/50/16 - 225/45/17<br /> <br /> '''Wheel option:''' OZ’s<br /> <br /> '''Suspension:''' Lotus Sport Suspension<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Rating:-===<br /> <br /> '''Dry Grip:''' 5<br /> <br /> '''Wet Grip:''' 2<br /> <br /> '''Life:''' 2<br /> <br /> '''On limit predictability:''' 3<br /> <br /> '''Value for money:''' 3<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Comment:'''<br /> Unbelievable dry grip on smooth tarmac but the flip side being the price especially when they only come with 6mm of tread from new. Not too bad in damp conditions but focused tread pattern means they are often overwhelmed through standing water. Need warming through well before offering peak performance but I found rear griped hard and use of throttle can wash out the front though improved by running 23psi in the front. Fantastic for track and low mileage summer users but expensive to run daily and scary in the winter.<br /> <br /> [[Category:Wheels and tyres]]<br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]<br /> [[Category:S2 Exige]]</div>

Dr. Evil https://wikiug.seloc.org/index.php?title=Change_a_CAT&diff=12054 2016-09-25T12:12:02Z

<p>Dr. Evil: </p> <hr /> <div>#[[Remove the rear undertray|Diffuser off (Rearmost part of the undertray)]]<br /> #Soak cat nuts in penetrating oil for a few days before hand. Undo nuts from Cat. (15MM), use Loctite Freeze and Release to break the nuts free of rust etc. It really does work. Use of an electric or air impact wrench here is a timesaver for removing the rusted nuts from the cat flanges. <br /> #Cut off those that won't move, swear profusely. <br /> #Wiggle the Cat, silencer and flexi until it all comes apart (If necessary remove rubber mount from the flexi)<br /> #Offer up CRP and fit the new stainless steel bolts in place not forgetting the gaskets<br /> #Tighten the new stainless steel nuts progressively as your CRP may not be an exact fit<br /> #Find gaskets on the floor undo the bolts and refit corectly<br /> #Refit diffuser<br /> <br /> Job is a carrot, first time will take hours as the bolts are all rusted, second time is a doddle. <br /> While the cat is off press out the studs with a vice and a suitable socket, makes things easier next time.<br /> <br /> Note that some grades of SS bolts may seize over time with the extreme temperatures; the only way to remove them is to apply pressure until they shear, then they will need to be renewed (removal will be necessary once a year for MOT if you are fitting a CRP). If fitting a CRP, normal steel bolts will be fine as the constant removal-refitting is enough to keep them from rusting up. <br /> <br /> The use of copper grease can help prevent seizure.<br /> <br /> [[Category:Exhaust]]<br /> [[Category:DIY]]<br /> [[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br /> [[Category:S1]]<br /> [[Category:S2]]</div>

Dr. Evil